Hoping to get some insight here. Two days ago my car started acting up. It'll get to a solid 70mph, but it takes forever to get there and won't rev past 3000 rpm. Yesterday it was 4000rpm. Stock it's 6200. I'm really hoping it's a DIY job..

Cruise control doesn't work, and any sort of uphill climb will bleed my rpm and speed. Just zero torque whatsoever.

It's a 2001 Honda Accord EX, 4Dr, 5 speed. F23A4 engine.



Background info that may have something to do with it: 3 days before this all went down, my ground cable wiggled
out of the amp and was stuck on the power cable, which was still in the amp. Haven't used the system in over a year, wish I just woulda taken it out.

I hope I've given enough info, if not just ask. Thanks on advance for help.

 

Is the check engine light on? If yes, go to Autozone or other auto parts store to extract the codes. Post the codes for help.

Suggest repairing the amplifier wiring or removing system.

good luck

 

It did have a code-- P0401

http://youtu.be/J-yXba1xeIY

I keep hearing that it's a lot more serious than my insufficient EGR flow...

 

It may be more the insufficient EGR flow. Perhaps a large leak into intake manifold causing misfire. Is car missing? No misfire codes?

Did this occur just when the amplifer wiring problem was found?

Try resetting the ECU by pulling the 7.5A backup fuse 13 in driver's underdash fuse box.

Does performance improve? Does CEL return? What code?

good luck

 

Cruise control doesn't work? How about the speedometer or VSS?

I've heard stories (not completely sure) about the PCM cutting power and/or imposing a rev-limiter if it's not getting any signal from the VSS. Basically, if the PCM thinks the car isn't actually moving.

 

I jumped the gun about cruise control. It works fine until I start going uphill, then it bleeds out. As long as I'm going on a level or downhill surface it works normally.

I'm currently getting an oil change and then taking it back to Nalley Auto, who supposedly will give me a computer printout of what's going on.

 

Could be the tps sensor .the last one I had this issue with had an bad catalytic converter

 

Not sure if this will help, and looking for help myself, lol. Ive got a 2003 Accord EX with the 2.4 vtec, its got a 5 spd automatic that i just replaced last year. It has 194k miles. I also have power loss and the engine wont tach above 3500. There is no check engine light. Ive had it put on the diagnostic like 4 times, and no codes came up. I did find a dead or lazy O2 sensor(primary), but it set no check engine light. I have replaced plugs, air filter, pcv, checked all vacuum hoses and replaced the pcv vent hose. I cant figure it out for the life of me. I think it might be a bad converter, only because when i have traveled a few times up a steep hill i smelled something hot, but the engine temp was normal. Is there a way to test for a bad convertor without expensive diagnostics? I also ran a compression test recently. I got 180 psi per cylinder which it maintained for at least 15 secs. Is this good compression for this motor? Im still leaning towards bad convertor, but damn they are so expensive, lol.

Can anyone help?

Mr Harp, ive got the same issue, hope u figured it out already, and if u have let me know please.

 

It is your catalytic converter.

You can remove it and knock the guts out for free, but only if you can live with a check engine light.

Mine had to be sawed off because the bolts were too badly rusted. So I have a newly welded in magnaflow catalytic converter, $300, and no check engine lights, and besides the price I'm happier than ever.

If yours is like mine, you have an "up" O2 sensor and a "down" O2 sensor. The "Up" one is between the engine and the catalytic converter, the "down" is ON the cat. Have your UP tested and of it's above 2.5Psi, that's your problem. The exhaust can't get through the cat and you have a lot of back pressure on your engine.

And don't go to advance auto to get a diagnostic, go to a muffler shop. Advance auto gave me 1 code, muffler shop gave me 4 which were all cleared by replacing the cat. My shop gave a free diagnostic, so call ahead and make sure they will tell you what's wrong for free before you pay $75+ just to find out what's wrong with your car.

But again, I'm telling you right now it's a catalytic converter.

 

Much Appreciated Robert!

I have long thought it might have been the cat, but there are limited tests without spending money, as you know. I replaced the upper O2 sensor last year, it was dead, but set no check engine light. I thought of hollowing out the cat, but the garages are strict around here. Should i replace the lower O2 sensor with the cat? I need a new pipe between the engine and cat as well, the flex part is starting to break away. So maybe thats why the primary O2 quit, it got too hot and burned out. It looked like something had ripped it apart on the inside, never seen nothing like it.

Thanks for your reply Robert