I have been reading up on all this and I'm still not 100% sure about this. Motor was swapped before I bought it and I have no way of getting the ECU that was with this motor. It is the f22B1 vtec. The Vtec is not wired up and not working. I am searching for the right ECU.

My car is a 96 Accord which is OBDII (ECU# P0B-A70).

The info on the motor says P0A-HA-4 (on head) and P0A-18 (on block). P0A is 94-95 OBD1 vtec, correct?

So does that mean the motor is a 94-95 and that is the year that the ECU should come from?

I believe the OBDII plug was removed. We can not locate it anywhere under the dash.

 

the f22 vtec engine came out of the 94-97 accord EX.

So you are a OBD2 set up anything after 1996 honda is OBD2

So you need a OBD2 honda accord EX ecu for your car

 

Thank you.

 

G22 what she was saying is that the motor was swapped before she bought car, not what came stock. If its a obd2 ecu running a obd1 engine then I imagine you would be getting quite a few check engine light codes. The Obd2 port is behind the ash tray on your car. Just pull out on it and you will find it.

 

 

Look for the serial # of the engine block. Next to the exhaust manifold, right alongside the split between engine & transmission is a flat surface with stuff stamped in it.

First line is engine type F22B1 (or tell us if it's different).
Second line is engine serial #. What is the first digit?
0 (zero) is a crate engine that was not installed into a car in the factory
1 is the first year that engine type was available
2 is the second year... etc.

It's possible to turn an OBD-1 engine into OBD-2 by using the OBD-2 sensors from the original engine. Don't automatically rule that out. They may have only swapped the shortblock.

 

That is just strange. Like the ignition switch isn't opening the circuit when you turn off the key...

 

yes f22b1
the next line looks like it might say 8/10/95. I'm not too sure its hard to read it.

Maybe? I turned the key off took it out and put it reverse and it started backing up, the key was in my hand and the motor was still running, but ignition was in off position.

 

serial # (2nd line) should just be a 7-digit number like 1234567
no slashes so it won't look like a date.

It shouldn't actually start with 8, which would be 2001 model-year but F22B1 wasn't offered after 1997.

 

serial # is 8490495, but it could be a 3 or 6, 9, 0. Was very difficult to read the number. So lets say its a 3 not an 8 that would be a 96 since that was the 3rd made, correct?

It was an alarm system. The alarm module was causing the problem. Kinda cool to find out but once they got to checking on the wires, they found that most of the wires under the dash were melted and exposed. Wires were spliced without being taped. It was horrible. I found a wiring harness for it but then we will have to put it all back together.