I am at a loss. It has been running Great. Typically idles right below 1000. Had smooth power besides a slight shudder at low speed on the gas.

Now after a short drive right as i pulled in the driveway it kicked up to 1600 idle. Blipped on it and it started hunting 2000-1600 rapidly up and down.

Checked the sensors. As best i can tell they were connected. I blipped the throttle and it went to a 2200 idle. It stayed like that til i popped the map sensor then dropped to below 1000.

Runs rough and exactly the same whether or not the map, throttle position and inlet temp are all disconnected.
Was hitting a rev limiter at 3000 rpm during this.

Shut it down, checked then cleared a slew of trouble codes. Restarted, now rev limit is about 4000, still rough, still high hunting idle. Seemed to **** it off even more when i turned off the ac switch....

I know yall say the MAP and TPS can be swapped. I want to believe this. I want to swap them to try but its literally not possible... dunno what kind of Trying Too Hard Assclown it would take to do that by accident.



As always. Thanks in advance for anything

 

That is a lot of stuff going wrong at once. On the 94-97 accords, you could accidentally switch the MAP and TP sensor connectors and maybe on the 90-93 and 98-02 as well. Swapping the actual sensors was never possible. Your picture shows the electrical connectors aren't long enough to accientally swap.

I know you have some other thread(s) on here. What work was done on your car so far? Was any work done on the car between it running smoothly and the issues you have now?

Does your scanner read live data?

 

Things keep changing
so its currently Not throwing the CEL light. Its idling at 1600 rpm with the ac on and hunting 1000-1800 with it off. Otherwise appears reasonably normal. Revlimiter at 4300.

Do we have any guesses why all the crazy codes went off?
Temp is less than halfway up the gauge assuming theres any water in it. It does seem to be using a bit of coolant. The overflow tank has been steadily dropping, from half and now is empty.

I recently saw a drip on the thermostat housing that may or may not have anything to do with the retainer clip on the radiator hose Adapter that was half out of its groove. Have not seen anything there since then.

 

Low coolant/air in the radiator/cooling system can definitely cause idle problems. Pockets of air hitting the coolant temperature sensor gives erratic readings and essentially messes up your idle.

Since you see coolant dripping, you should wait until the engine is cold, remove the raditor cap, then top off the coolant in the radiator. The next step would be to get the loaner radiator pressure tester from a part store, where you put down a deposit for the the tool and get refunded when you are done. Pressure test the radiator to about 16 psi on a cold engine. If pressure doesn't hold, then find and repair any leaks. You can also use that kit to pressure test the radiator cap. The radiator cap will hold pressure up to the value stamped or on the sticker of the cap. If it say 1.1 atm (16.2 psi) then the cap should hold pressure up to 16.2 psi, then the cap will vent to atmospehere.

 

Beginning og hunting idle

Hunting idle became narrower but more rapid

4300 rev limiter
The TPS (is functional). Can watch live data on the graph.

Coolant is at top of radiator

Car is cooled down. Still doing the high hunting idle. Hunting more aggressively than before.

The intake leak code has come back along with Higher than expected idle speed code

 

Car has been driving great
coolant has already been in it for months, bubbles seem to be done.
Does seem to be going somewhere but cant see anything fresh. No smoke of any color out the tailpipe. Perhaps its small enough to go unnoticed.

Will get the pressure tester
Whats your aerosol of choice when looking for vacuum leaks?

 

I'd use propane as it is the safest option. Flamable liquids risk starting a fire.

The second screen shot looks like the car is trying to find idle. Topping off with coolant might solve the idle problem.

You might want to monitor the sensors that were giving the codes to see if one of them are giving a strange input.

 

Haha propane is a new one on me but sound logic. I assume butane is just as good. Ill poke around with a lighter.

Aha monitor the weird sensors. Sensible.
im assuming theres one, maybe 2 real issues that are throwing erroneous related codes.
Yeah ill top everything up

Yes it is struggling like hell to find idle
In fact its the first time its even been apparant that the IAC is even functional. Typically its idling so low that its on the verge or actually crapping out

Wifey (greenest of green drivers, has been on the road 3 times now in Trial By Fire ---had a panic attack in the highway today and had to swap seats by crawling over eachother---because theres NOWHERE good to teach a newb here) told me it was crapping on itself. I called operator error. Then it did it to me 3 times on the way to work the next day including when i stuck the clutch at 60 mph on the highway. Not before nor since. But it sure did that day. Was considering tweaking the screw in the throttle body.

Who is this guy anyway? You work for a dealer or something or you just have an undying love and strange amounts of knowledge on these old Hondas?

 

I got a lot of help on this and another defunct forum for my old 95 accord when I was a broke graduate student. I learned a lot and saved a ton of money keeping my car going. Now I have about a 20 year old TSX daily driver I work on that is esentially the same as your accord, so I know a bit about them. I'd say I'm paying it forward for folks that need help like I did a long time ago.

 

That works.
well its appreciated

By the looks of things this forum is nearly defunct too. I see old threads that have input from lots of people, newer threads seem to have you as the sole respondent...