Part number for that temperature sensor in the bottom of the radiator is 37870-RAA-A01.
But have you tested whether the sensor is faulty vs. some wiring problem?

The sensor has some kind of gasket/washer. I have had some luck changing things like that without spilling too much coolant, if I have the new one just ready in my other hand so I can change it quickly. It's a bit of a mess, and you'll have to top up whatever coolant you spill.

Or maybe it's a good excuse to drain it all and put fresh coolant in. The maintenance schedule probably says lifetime coolant, but I refuse to believe any working fluid is really lifetime (its been 15 years).

 

I'm not sure how to test the temp sensor. I looked at the wiring and it looks okay. I actually replaced the coolant 2 years ago. I also don't agree with things lasting for the life of the vehicle, not only 15 years but 285,000 km. Can you recommend a PC software to use with my USB OBD that would monitor the individual sensors?

 

PA, since you're on this thread also, do you have anything like resistance vs. temperature for that sensor?

I don't have a scanner either, but I might pay attention to recommendations because it's getting more useful to have one of those.

 

The shop manuals do the testing through the scanner, so they don't go do resistance checks on the sensor on post 1998 vehicles.

The resistance specs for the 94-97 accord coolant temp sensor is ~1250 ohms at ~75 degrees F, and 200-400 ohms at operating temperature (~200 deg F). The 94-97 accord temperature sensor also has a 5V feed, so the resistance across the sensor should be similar to an 06. Since the 2183 error code is for high voltage, the resistance should be very low across the unplugged sensor on a cold radiator, or the 2 wires to the sensor are shorted together before the sensor.

For a scan tool, it really depends on how much you want to spend. There are cheap blue-tooth scanners/plugs for ~$20 and you can purchase torque pro on your phone for ~$8, and you should be able to read sensor data. I bought a bluedriver obd2 scanner for ~$100 and it does a decent job as well.

 

I have an OBD scanner that plugs into the USB port on my Windows Laptop but the software I have Scan XL doesn't seem to monitor the individual sensors, unless I just don't know how to use it or what to look for. I used to be able to reset the check engine light and it would be good for a few trips but now it immediately comes back on. Could there just be crap on the sensor inside the rad? Is this an expensive sensor? Amazon.ca says $70 but ebay.ca has it for $11 but it will take a long time to get. It might make sense to just try to replace it as it is a pain to jack the car up and take that shroud off to troubleshoot.