Edit: 1987 Accord LX, carb

I got it lose but there's not enough clearance to get it out. The manual and a post in DIY mentions removing the axle but even then it doesn't seem like enough clearance. Any ideas?

Background: The alternator whines and get's really hot to the touch and smells within a minute. It turns freely and Alt light is not lit. It seems a complete replacement is necessary.

 

See this link:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ccord-1468402/

 

Excellent! Thank you

I sure don't want to pull the axle.

 

Hey, I know that guy at the end of that thread.....it is me . Yes I use a few different user names

I see you have the "carb'd" model. You will need to twist/turn the alt in a few different positions to get it to "slide" from the left/drivers side to the right/pass side. It will fit between the back of the engine and the firewall.

If memory serves me - been a few years since I did one of these - on the auto trans ones there is a cable on the pass side that has to be moved to get it to come out.

I know this sounds crazy but trust me, in my opinion doing it this way is way easier than pulling the cv shaft.

 

Hey Poorman
Yes, I got it out past the firewall, I had to dislodge the heater control valve but that's waaaay easier than removing the axle. Not a bad job. The firewall method was a godsend, thanks for posting that. The problem now is getting a replacement, the rebuilds have been defective or incorrect connector, I need 3 spade connector.

You helped me a few years ago with a carb problem, thanks again for that. It's been running excellent ever since until this alternator problem.

 

Can't help much on a "good" replacement.....if my failing memory serves me right the three pin vs four pin alt connections is again one of the differences between the carb and FI engines....carb is three and FI is four.

When you say "defective", what is going on?

Glad the "firewall" method worked out

 

The local parts store had a rebuilt one in stock but the rotor was dragging on something so they ordered another and it had a 4 pin connector. I don't trust the rebuilds so I'm thinking a new aftermarket AND0039 $62 free shipping and no core from Ebay. I see in my old Arrowhead catalog they sell AND0039 aftermarket. (not an Arrowhead fan)

Edit: The problem with the alternator in the car is it hasn't been charging well for years and I had to charge the battery every few months but the other day I heard an unusual whine and when I started it the next morning I could still hear the new whine and I raised the hood and could smell something hot then I felt heat rising from the alternator. I shut it down and the alternator was too hot to touch after a minute or two of running. It spins freely.

My accord will be 30 years old in August...I'm going to order a cake. I'm the only one who's driven it. I helped the dealer back it off the car carrier from Japan. 163,000 miles.

 

Ok, again can't help with the "good" replacement....besides confirm, now, that the carb is three pin and the FI is four pin.....dragged out my service manual to confirm. I was about to go off the deep end on an issue some of the carb'd ones had - strange that a choke coil issue can cause an issue with the alt....but it happens....glad that is not your issue.

Happy B Day to the car , I still think these little "guys" were some of the best Honda ever built.

 

I have an observation, and may be wrong. I think the space under the hood is getting bigger in the last 5 or 10 years due to bigger and better crumple zones. Makes it easier to work on. The alternator in my '14 looks like it should be easy to replace, at least compared to an '87. On the other hand if you can open the hood on my Corvair you can figure out how to replace the alternator. I have a spare if I ever need it. It was about $10. It's rated at 37 amps!

 

On gen3 carbed accords the smog stuff takes up a lot of room, fuel injection has a cleaner engine compartment but I wonder how many LXis are still on the road compared to carbed models. FI at the time was not great.