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1988 Accord heat/AC and other issues

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  #1  
Old 05-25-2010, 02:23 PM
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Default 1988 Accord heat/AC and other issues

I have a 1988 Honda Accord LX 5-spd with 226,000 miles

the car is old enough to go to the bar, but here is the issue(s)

1. The slider that goes from hot to cold, and vice versa only moves halfway, is there any way to fix this or do I need to replace the cable?

2. Once the above is fixed, the A/C blows a little cold, but not cold enough to warrant me to turn it on. I thought about converting it to 134a(I know it isn't already since the valves are R-12) what is the procedure on this once I get the system evacuated? Does Honda A/C compressors burn up?

Also, While I was changing the brakes on my car, I noticed the tire tread looked like the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, so I know their is a suspension issue. It is all on the driver side.

Would you recommend replacing all struts and springs on all four corners? I am going to check the tie-rods for excessive play. How difficult is to replace the struts without killing anyone? (spring compressor, I know).

Also, I noticed that the trans when shifted to 5th gear grinds, could the trans be going or just a bad syncro? Maybe a trans mount or engine mount?

I know it isn't worth all this, but what the hell..

Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
 
  #2  
Old 05-25-2010, 03:53 PM
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You might have to start taking the heater apart to figure out about the control lever vs. the cable. Find where/why it can't move all the way over.

Part of that might help the AC issue. When you move the temperature control lever, you're moving an air door in the heater and a water valve in the heater hose. If something's disconnected your heater might be heating the air back up after the AC cools it off.

Suspension alignment. If you're working on it, then YES by all means look for loose bushings or balljoints or ANYTHING loose. If you take it to a shop tell them you suspect something like that so they make a point to look for it.

I never had a 1988 but if you know how to be careful with spring compressors, it shouldn't be much different from any other kind of car.
 
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:42 PM
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I did see sway bar bushings that were almost non-existent, but I don't think that is the problem. I think the car was hit on the driver's side and whoever did such a shody job of repairing it that it may need more suspension work

I will need to put the car in the air and more the tires to see if there is an play and take a closer look at ball joints and such
 
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:06 PM
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So I wasn't thinking about a collision. Now we (well, YOU actually) have to worry about the structure of the car being bent.
 
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Old 05-26-2010, 05:10 AM
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Hey, it gets me from point A to point B, but the car shakes, oh well
 
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:42 AM
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Well, there's a lot of collision repair shops that can pull it back into straightness. For a price... I was just saying that it's another possibility to explain the funny tire wear.
 
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:01 AM
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Well, I fixed the heat slider issue(forced over to cold).

The other issue, the extreme shaking, I am wondering if the inner tie rods are bad? The tires look like the rocky mountains with the chop on it.

What do you think?
 
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:08 PM
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I have to ask about the CV Shafts. One of the kids came back from school a few weeks ago..."hey dad my car is acting funny". Shakes at speeds, starting at about 20 mph and gets worse as you go. Both front tires shot along with both cv shafts. Relaced two tires, I know, and both shafts and yes I made him do the work on the shafts, I just supervise these days. Running like a champ. Something to look or think about.
 
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:37 PM
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Turn the steering wheel until it locks, then put the car on jackstands.

Try to push/pull on the tire at 3/9 o'clock to see if you have a lot of play. Also 12/6 o'clock.

The tire should not move much. If you have a lot of play and/or hear a noise, try to locate the noise.

The 3/9 will be from the inner and outer tie-rod. The 6/12 will be upper and lower ball joint.
 
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:57 PM
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I bought inner and outer tie rods for both sides. The inner had absolutely no play in it, but when I checked the outer, I could move it all over the place. I replaced the outer on the driver side and now it has no play in it! Drives a lot better, but I think the passenger side needs to be replaced too. There is still a bit of shake but not as bad as before where you can have a martini well shaken

The steering wheel is a bit off so I may have it aligned when both are done.

Once both sides are done I will see how it is, but the cv shafts look new and no rips in the boots.

Tires will need to be replaced since there is cupping and some inner wear.
 


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