Hello All,

I have a 1990 Honda accord that has recently started to require a jump to get it started. I originally thought it was my battery, which was getting up there in age, so I replaced with a new one and the car started right up. Thought I was in the clear.

After several days, the original symptoms returned (needing jump). Note: that after the jump, the car runs fine, no problems with engine running. Can even run the AC (but I do not).

I have checked the system according to the Haynes manual (Chapter 5, section 11). After disconnecting the negaive cable i applied a test light to teh negative post and detached negative cable. The test light comes on. I have pulled all the fuses under the hood and from the interior driver-side compartment without getting the light to go off.

I have also noticed some weird behaviour with the interior lights for my turn signals( they sometime illuminate, but mostly do not). Externally, the lights are blinking as expected. Additionaly, the speedodomoter will bounce with the turn signal blink. Not all the time but sometimes.

Finally, voltage across battey is roughly 11.56 volts with engine off. Running it is less than 11 (about 10.65 volts if my memory serves correctly)

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next and check next ?

Thanks for you help.

Mike

 

I would stop by a parts store and have the battery and alternator tested.

Try unplugging the alternator with your current draw test as well.

 

Hello PAHOnda,

Just wanted to give you an update. Been busy but did get the car to the auto store. Could not test battery, voltage to low so I am getting that charged.

Did test alternator.. it passed with flying colors.

May be you can help me understand something. I have followed the procedures, as I stated, in the Haynes manual chapter 5, section 11. Test light does not go off with fuses pulled... Tests on both the black/yellow and blue/white wiring of alternator failed ... (voltage/grounding tests) for teh charging bulb tests. SO I expected the alternator would be bad after that. Still looks like some sort of open circuit somewhere.

Does this extra info point you towards any additional testing I can perform?

Thanks

Mike

 

Either weak battery, loose connection on battery terminals or bad alternator. Also check for corroded battery cables as it can't recharge the battery through corroded cable.

 

Examine the main battery ground cable from end to end...look for a split insulation cover or corrosion.

 

Key on and there was not any voltage on the BLK/YEL or BLU/WHT at the alt?

Did you test for continuity on the BLK/YEL from the alt to the key switch? Also doube check the under dash fuse (#2 fuse-15amp).

 

Ok everyone. Here is the latest.
As stated earlier. alternator tested good, and I had the battery fully charged.
Picked up battery Sunday... it was @ 13.64v according to tester.
Monday morning battery checked battery and my voltmeter measured 13.1v.
installed alternator Monday evening. Before starting car, checked battery voltage.It was down to 12.96v ??? Not sure this is normal.
Started car without jump.
Voltage across battery while running measured at 14.3v

Short testing with negative pole and unplugged negative cable still remains positive (test light is on when touching pole and detached cable.) By the way, I performed the short test with the alternator removed and the testing light remained on.

I checked ground as suggested. Ground test was positive for continuity and voltage (voltage to ground 13.1v at time of test).

Finally, I now have a consistent visual indication of a problem. The S green light is now flashing. Does this provide any clues for anyone, or is this potentially a new issue?

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help. Greatly appreciated and needed !!!

Mike

 

Sometimes electrical work can cause a confused control unit.

Reset TCU by pulling BackUp fuse (7.5A) in underhood fuse box for 20 secs. If flashing S-light returns, get the code from TCU by shorting service check connector (see DiY forum for guideline, same as OBD1 codes from check engine light).

good luck

 

Hello Texas Honda

Been quite busy so have not really had time to get back to the honda. However, I did pull the BackUp fuse as suggested. Green S light started blinking again after about 20 seconds. I have not had the chance to get the TCU code, but will do this weekend and post.

Several things are now going on , I guess with the battery charged, that had not seen before.
1. Instrument panel lights are off except for park.drive.reverse transmission indicators. Turn signal lights are working, but only intermittingly.
2. Car has started jumping into Sports mode (Assuming definitely a TCU issue here ?? But note the sports mode seems to only happen in the mornings (condensation ??). In the evening/late afternoon, the S lights blinks but does NOT jump into sports mode!!

 

W/o codes, these symptoms have no meaning to me.

good luck