If the fans aren't coming on when the temp is more than 1/2 way on the gauge; I'd be jumping under the hood and testing the thermal switch for continuity.
You said both fans run when you jumpered the thermal switch, so that means the rest of the circuit is okay.

Or you could jumper the switch for testing and go for a drive to see if you still overheat.
If you still overheat with the fans running, then I'd go looking for blocked passages, fins rusted off water pump, blown head gasket.....etc.

 

OK, i think i either have a intermitant H2O pump or a bad thermostat. Put eveything together without the t-stat. (I gutted the old t-stat and put it into the seal and installed it) Bled the system and ran around for about 10 minutes. Started slow and went faster and faster. Temp was rock solid. When i got back i could feel the hot water in the lower tube.

Put the "new" t-stat back in. Bled the system. Took off and pegged the temp in about 200 feet. Came back home.

Seams like i either have a bad t-stat or flaky H2O pump. Off to the dealer to get a OEM t-stat. Will report back.

 

Have a Honda T-stat in now. Still overheating but i am double checking my bleeding proceedure right now.

With radiator cap off, should water surge out of the radiator as the engine warms up? The bleed proceedure says to leave the cap off once all the air is out and continue adding water. I get alot of water surging so that is difficult. Also, should water flow in the radiator look like the water lever rising and lowering up the radiator fill neck?

 

The water will surge and should drop when the thermostat opens. If the fans come on I think it will overflow a little. Are there a lot of bubbles?

 

No bubbles that i can see. Spent alot of time bleeding the air as well.

New T-stat (Honda) did not solve the problem. I pulled the t-stat and re-installed my hollow (old gutted) t-stat. Temp was better but after a while it still overheated. Jumpered the T-stat thermalswitch and went for a drive with both fans going. Still no go.

So, i think i have a damaged H2O pump and a bad thermalswitch as the fans never come on when it overheats. My reasoning is the testing i have done and the condition of the old t-stat and thermol switch. They were pretty coroded so i am sure the H2O pump is similar. Will start diging in and hope to find a pile of junk inside.

Thank you all again for the help. Every time i have trouble this forum is awesome in helping diagnose the problem for the guy who wants to try and fix it himself. Wish i had enough knowledge to contribute like you guys.Was hoping to not put any more $$ into this accord as i have been searching for a new one but alas....

Will report but it will probably be Sunday.

 

I would try filling the lower Rad hose if it is like my 95 and goes to something high on the motor. I think it is the thermostat housing. I have had cars where this was the only way to get the air out.

 

Problem solved. After all that it turned out to be the H2O pump. See picture. That is what happens in 9 months running straight H2o instead of 50/50. I learned my lesson.
All is good now and i have 50/50 in the radiator and everything has been flushed.

I still have a T-stat Thermalswitch that probably could stand to be replaced but i am no longer overheating. (drivers side fan still does not come on dispite verifying the switch, wiring and fan do work.)

Thank you agian for all the advice.

Matthew

 

Glad you let us know what you found. I live in Michigan and with our winters no one can run water so we don’t see failures like that.

 

I am sure if i was not in So. Cal i would have worried more about that. About as cold as it gets is in the 40's and not that often.

Glad it is back on the road.

 

Of the few cooling systems that I have seen turn to rust like that they did return to rust again even after a flush. . Over the years I have seen additives to prevent that thro.