hi all this is my first post and also first honda that ive worked on, so heres the deal i was asked to change the transmission in a 1991 honda accord 2.2, it was trailered to me with some things already dismantled, and the "parts" and transmission in the trunk.
i was able to swap out the tranny and reconnected all the items that i hadnt taken off all except the steering pump which was not there,anyways i found a battery to test the vehicle"also missing", and it turns over fine and shifts through the gears and has spark but i cant hear the fuel pump turn on when i key on the car and there is no smell of fuel on the plugs. i checked all the visible fuses but none of the larger relays, what can be the cause of this and where should i start, ...maybe a test for power to the pump
any hel would be great ive been given compensation already and want the car outa my shop and to see if the trans is good. ill be up late tonight messing so lease stop in and rely

 

It can be the fuel pump, or something with the power supply to the fuel pump (main fuel relay, a fuse, the ignition switch, or possibly the wiring).

In the trunk of the car, there is an access panel near the back seat. There is an electrical connector nearby that has three wires going to it.

The yel wire should get 12V for about two seconds when you turn the key to the II position. A 12V test light would probably be the easiest thing to test, because you can see the light turn on. If you get 12V, then the fuel pump would be the prime suspect. If no voltage, I move to testing the main relay.

There is also a 10 amp fuse in the driver's side fuse box that you would want to check as well.

 

thanks for the reply im going to try those things, i was also going to try jumping the fuel pum w a 12v source what does the relay or main relay look like on the 1991, i cant find a digram for the under dash relays and boxes

 

Copy and paste the link below in your browser.

techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html

Here is a pdf that shows what wires you can jump to send voltage to the fuel pump. Before you jump that relay, make sure that you test for voltage on the blk/yel wire with the key in the II position. Turn off key, then jump the wire. The pdf also shows that connector I was talking about.

media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/accordManual/400/6-215.pdf

 

ok so i tried testing the main relay and its fine, i had a friend with a working car and we switched the main out stil nothing, and still the same reading at the link in the back, the yel wire gets about 2 v when cranking and the other 2 terminals show 5.3v across them, there is a green S that lights u when im cranking the car over in the transmission display area and there is no radio in this car, im still at a loss andf the guy wants his car and i want it gone, i guess i gotta check all the fuses manually ive never had one that was blown that looked good, lease help , and where is the engine test link i never ulled the distributer is there any way it coulda got so far outa time

 

The S light would indicate the transmission computer detect a problem. There is thread called common DIY Threads. There is a writeup on how to check cel codes. Do the procedure and count the CEL and the S light flashes.

 

ok i got the cel light and i believe its giving me a 16, fuel injector now thats a jumer wire then the engine light auses for a sec and then flashes 6 times then its on for a sec then flashes 6 times, im gonna test the S light now

 

ok so the s light was indicating that the sport mode of the trans was engaged, i pushed the button it went away, so im stuck with the number 16 code, is this just connected to the fact that the pump is not getting power which leaves me where i was please help pahonda

 

Code 16 can pop up due to lack of power to the fuel injectors. Each injector has two wires going to it. Power is supplied from the main fuel relay at all times when the key is in the II position. The ECU grounds each injector to open them up to spray fuel.

Check for 12V on the wire color that is the same going to each injector to ground with the key in the II position.

 

getting 11.5 v on the two outer cylinders on the redblk line and nothing on the inner two