1991 EX-R Won't stay running!
#1
06-21-2011, 03:27 PM
1991 EX-R Won't stay running!
Hi guys, first off I want to say I love the site.
My problem started a while ago with a small sputter at idle. It seemed to get worse to the point it would occasionaly hesitate/bog on take off and feel a buck at highway speeds. Then the other day it died while accelerating in stop and go traffic. After a few minutes and a couple trys it fired up and I proceeded home.
Now today I went and got new plugs (NGK Iridium IX) and wires (NGK RC-HE57). Installed them per manufacturers recomendations. When I finished I started the car and let it warm up, seemed to idle good. I took it for a drive and noticed it ran better for about 5km then the hesitating/bogging started very bad untill it finaly died at about 40kmph and coasted to a stop. It would not start for about 20min and when it did, it would only stay running if the RPM were above 1500 or so. I was able to make it home as I was only a block or two away. Now it will barely even idle without dieing.
Any suggestions on where to start would be great. Things I have done are:
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
NGK wire set RC-HE57
Air filter
Fuel filter
Distributor cap
Oil and Filter
Thanks
Justin
My problem started a while ago with a small sputter at idle. It seemed to get worse to the point it would occasionaly hesitate/bog on take off and feel a buck at highway speeds. Then the other day it died while accelerating in stop and go traffic. After a few minutes and a couple trys it fired up and I proceeded home.
Now today I went and got new plugs (NGK Iridium IX) and wires (NGK RC-HE57). Installed them per manufacturers recomendations. When I finished I started the car and let it warm up, seemed to idle good. I took it for a drive and noticed it ran better for about 5km then the hesitating/bogging started very bad untill it finaly died at about 40kmph and coasted to a stop. It would not start for about 20min and when it did, it would only stay running if the RPM were above 1500 or so. I was able to make it home as I was only a block or two away. Now it will barely even idle without dieing.
Any suggestions on where to start would be great. Things I have done are:
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
NGK wire set RC-HE57
Air filter
Fuel filter
Distributor cap
Oil and Filter
Thanks
Justin
#2
06-21-2011, 04:39 PM
Ok, I checked for CEL codes even though the light hasn't come on and it gives me a repeated single flash. As I understand this is a Code 1-Oxygen content warning. The manual says its oxygen sensor, heater and the oxygen sensor circuit.
Could the o2 sensor cause all these symptoms?
Also the heater works intermitently is this related?
Could the o2 sensor cause all these symptoms?
Also the heater works intermitently is this related?
#3
06-21-2011, 04:50 PM
my o2 sensor is bad, and te car runs fine, just a lil sluggish.
my bet would be on the ignition coil, has it rained lately by any chance, id replace the coil and test drive
my bet would be on the ignition coil, has it rained lately by any chance, id replace the coil and test drive
#4
06-21-2011, 05:00 PM
The code could be a code 1 (short flash) or a code 10 (long flash).
Watch this youtube video
YouTube - ‪1991 honda accord Check Engine light.mp4‬‏
The codes are 17, then 43. Then it repeats. That should give you a reference for a long vs short flash.
Watch this youtube video
YouTube - ‪1991 honda accord Check Engine light.mp4‬‏
The codes are 17, then 43. Then it repeats. That should give you a reference for a long vs short flash.
#6
06-22-2011, 05:35 PM
Replaced the ignition coil today and still no better. At idle the tach bounces around from 800rpm to under 500rpm and dies. It starts and runs great as long as the RPM are over 1500. I held the throttle at different increments to see where it was reacting. ie: 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000.
So in the last two days the coil, wires, and plugs have been replaced. does this still sound like a ignition problem?
Any help would be great. Thanks
So in the last two days the coil, wires, and plugs have been replaced. does this still sound like a ignition problem?
Any help would be great. Thanks
#7
06-22-2011, 05:43 PM
You should double check the code, just to be sure you got a code 1. After the single short flash, there should be a long pause, then another short flash, if the code was 1. If the code is lets say nine, you will get nine quick flashes, then a longer pause between codes.
Do you have a volt meter? Do you have a timing light?
Do you have a volt meter? Do you have a timing light?
#8
06-22-2011, 08:26 PM
You should double check the code, just to be sure you got a code 1. After the single short flash, there should be a long pause, then another short flash, if the code was 1. If the code is lets say nine, you will get nine quick flashes, then a longer pause between codes.
Do you have a volt meter? Do you have a timing light?
Do you have a volt meter? Do you have a timing light?
I double checked the code and it is deffinitly a single short flash pause single short flash. I watched for a couple minutes to make sure there was no change.
I also disconected the IACV and cleaned and fluhed it. Looked like it hadn't been done, very black a gunked up screen. It looked new after I finished. After I re-installed it I bled the coolant and toped it up.
Car runs the same. Ok over 1500rpm and a fluctuating idle between 800-500rpm that eventualy stalls.
Thanks for the help. Any other suggestions would be great.
#9
06-22-2011, 09:32 PM
Here are some things that you can try.
Get in the habit of turning the key to the II position and do not try to start the car. When the check engine light does its bulb check, the fuel pump should turn on for ~2 seconds as well. Turn of the radio, blower, etc.. and listed carefully, because the fuel pump is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat. When the car stalls out and will not start, try to listen if that sound is missing.
If you still have one of those old spark plugs, you can test for spark when the engine is not starting. In the required reading, there is a tegger link that shows how to do the spark test to verify spark. The spark plug method is only definitive if you see no spark.
Also, when the engine is running, try shaking the key to see if you can get the car to stall out.
I would also disconnect the battery, and clean all ends of both battery cables with a wire brush or sand paper. Any grounding bolts you can find as well. There is one on the thermostat housing that is an important grounding point. It is g101 in the image below.
Get in the habit of turning the key to the II position and do not try to start the car. When the check engine light does its bulb check, the fuel pump should turn on for ~2 seconds as well. Turn of the radio, blower, etc.. and listed carefully, because the fuel pump is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat. When the car stalls out and will not start, try to listen if that sound is missing.
If you still have one of those old spark plugs, you can test for spark when the engine is not starting. In the required reading, there is a tegger link that shows how to do the spark test to verify spark. The spark plug method is only definitive if you see no spark.
Also, when the engine is running, try shaking the key to see if you can get the car to stall out.
I would also disconnect the battery, and clean all ends of both battery cables with a wire brush or sand paper. Any grounding bolts you can find as well. There is one on the thermostat housing that is an important grounding point. It is g101 in the image below.
Last edited by PAhonda; 06-24-2011 at 07:55 PM.
#10
06-24-2011, 07:37 PM
two cents from a poorman.....after cheacking the ground.
Why was the dist rotor not replaced?
Then it looks like it does not re-start right away....when this happens, check for spark at the plugs.
When it dies, what lights are on, on the dash (oil, battery...what else if anything).
Personally, I'm with either the ICM or ign switch (looks like the same place PA is going as well)....TESTING will prove the right answer.
Why was the dist rotor not replaced?
Then it looks like it does not re-start right away....when this happens, check for spark at the plugs.
When it dies, what lights are on, on the dash (oil, battery...what else if anything).
Personally, I'm with either the ICM or ign switch (looks like the same place PA is going as well)....TESTING will prove the right answer.