Hello HAF members,

I have a 1992 Accord that I inherited from my dad (who inherited it from my uncle). The car was running fine until I got some bad gas at the end of October 2012. (I know there was an issue as the pumps were roped off for about 4 days after)

We were taking a trip and had driven about 120 miles when the tach started jumping up into the red, down to 0, back and forth. The motor never sounded as if it were revving. Then the car jerked a bit (as if were gas or air starved) and would either smooth out or lose power. (the check engine light would come on but the car was still running). We would have to put the car in neutral, turn the key all the way off, then it would start right up. (I cannot get the scenario to duplicate by jiggling the ignition keys, fyi)

We ran some B12 through and then some seafoam, and changed the fuel filter. We changed the ignitor about 7 months ago (prior to these issues)

Today, when I stopped for a train the oil light started flickering but changed to a steady blinking after take off. It did that all the way to work where I turned the car off, restarted it and sat for approx 5 minutes but the oil light did not blink any more. I even tried mashing the brake to see if I could get it to repeat. It did not. After a few hours, I went out and checked the oil. It is full and clean.

Any ideas on where to go from here? I am not car savvy, but can read a schematic. Please don't use abbreviations because I will not have a clue of what the frak you are talking about!

Thanks so much in advance! I really love this little car and don't want to have to get a new one!

 

Jumping tach can be caused by a number of ignition issues; ignitor, coil, spark plug wires, or spark plugs. See "How to Troubleshoot and Fix" in DIY forum.

Oil light is likely a faulty oil pressure switch. They go bad and start this behavior. On back side of engine near/above the oil filter. Switch replacement requires a special socket (check autozone for rental).

good luck

 

not into intensive diagnosis over the web, but:

AA) sounds like when I got oil leak into distributor back on my '93. Just 2000 miles after switching to synthetic oil.
Don't remember check engine light one way or other. Replaced distributor, solved problem.

BB) on oil pressure sensor. Just today got that replaced today at Sears on '97 Accord, was leaking badly.
Cost $24 part, $27 labor; a steal I thought. $51 and I got to have b'fast while they did the work!

 

Thanks guys for the advice. I will look into all that and if she doesn't start running right, I'll take her to the mechanic. I will let y'all know what I find.

BTW- I guess the oil light glitch was just that...drove it all weekend and could not get it to repeat.

I am beginning to think the car just doesn't like coming to work...runs fine over the weekend but this is the second Monday in a row that I have had to be rescued!

 

Hey y'all!

Again I want to thank y'all for the advice.

Here is what we have done so far since I got the car...

1. New alternator and belt (lost one of the Honda bolts so now it squeals upon starting for a short while, longer if its cold. Someone suggested belt dressing to clean the belt)

2. New ICM (hubby checked the dizzy and it was surprisingly clean in there!)

3. New Main relay

4. New fuel filter (there was quite a bit of water and trash in it)

Was still having the same issues with tach jumping and car dying so took it to a mechanic. Turns out the cat was not just stopped up and burnt but actually melted! Since I live in Oklahoma and we do not have car inspections (YAY!) I told him to cut the pos off and straight pipe it. Which he did for $20 and a 6 pack of Coors Light! Drove it home and noticed tach started jumping again but car was starting and running fine.

Next day...guess what? Same thing! Jumpy tach died 3 or 4 times on the way to and the way home, then would not start at all the next day. FYI- it was about 25 degrees both days.

Now some are saying replace the whole dizzy, including the ignitor and some are saying no its the coil packs internal and external. Which should I do or both?

I am slowly running out of money and sanity. I need to do something! I talked to the mechanic again but he is swamped and can't get to it for another 2-3 weeks! Thanks again for all your advice and help! BTW the oil light issue never repeated so I guess those gremlins moved on!

 

Is the engine stopping instantly, dash lights go off, and staying dead for some time, then for no apparent reason restarting? This would be a symptom of faulty ignition switch assy. Tach would go on/off/on/off perhaps.

If you don't plan to do any diagnosis (see my first post), then start w/ replacing the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. This may fix problem and these are maintenance items anyway, relatively low cost.

If the problem persists, suggest replacing distributor. Check rockauto, ebay, amazon for online prices. You should be able to find a distributor for $100-$150.

good luck

 

TexasHonda- When she dies, the motor just stops. The tach continues to bounce and then everything stops and the dash lights come on as they do when the key is on but not in the starting position. As to diagnosing, is there a link to the DIY troubleshooting section or am I just blinded by frustration?

As I said before I am not car mechanics savvy but I can read and if I can see how it should be I can fix just about anything. Thanks again for all your help! (Way more help than my brother, who told me to take it to a different mechanic, forgetting that I live in extremely rural Oklahoma and don't have many choices for Honda repair. Now if it were a Chevy or Ford....)

 

TexasHonda- Never mind. I found the DIY section. And no I am not a ditzy blonde! I am a ditzy brunette thank you very much! lol

 

Well a guy on another forum gave me something to think about. He suggested that since I have changed the ICM to check the connections one at a time and squeeze them a bit with needlenose pliers then put some dielectric grease on before replacing. He stated this held a better connection and solve his issue. I'm gonna try this as well as the other things I found in the DIY forum. Thanks again TexasHonda!

 

I believe your car has an external coil. A coil fault will cause tach indications, engine to stop, and be difficult to start.

good luck