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-   -   1993 Accord questions (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/1993-accord-questions-35740/)

WIAccord 10-23-2010 02:46 PM

1993 Accord questions
 
I recently(today) got a 1993 Accors DX with 163,xxx miles on it.
I have a question about it, it seems to be over heating(according to the dash guage) The guage pegs H while idling, but goes down to normal while driving(accelerating). Could this be the water pump? I've already ruled out a head gasket, no coolant out the exhaust or in the oil. Could it be the head or head gasket? I find no obvious signs of coolant leaking anywhere, but haven't driven it much yet. The car seems to run great otherwise, no missing or any other issues that I can tell.
I'd also like to know a ballpark figure for value on this car, I know any used car is worth what someone will pay for it, just looking for ideas on what I should pay for it. Thanks.

PAhonda 10-23-2010 07:30 PM

Do not drive it until you figure out why it is overheating. Excessive heat can damage the head gasket.

When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap and fill it to the top with a 50:50 mix of antifreeze and water. If the coolant gets low, then you have a leak. You can also have the radiator pressure tested to verify.

Also, start the car and turn on the a/c. See if both fans run.

Shag Wagon 10-23-2010 10:06 PM

Fans wont have much to do with the problem. Im in SC and my fans rarely come on in the summer months unless I am in a drive through sitting for 10 minutes. I have noticed on some Hondas that when the thermostats go bad, they usually stick open and there is a mechanism that prevents them from sticking shut when their bad. But you could have one of those freaky ones that stuck closed. To test this theory, simply take the thermostat out and see what happens. If that doesnt solve your problem, it appears you are almost due for a timing belt anyway, so I would go ahead and replace all that stuff with a new water pump.

My wagon has a blown head gasket right now. It runs rough on start up and its drinking water. It however is not condensing during the day. I also notice my oil is going pretty low quickly but I have all new bottom end seals and oil pan gasket. No noticeable blue smoke.

WIAccord 10-24-2010 09:47 PM

Ok, a litle more info. I checked the coolant level in the radiator, it took less than a cup to top it off. So, it doesn't seem to be using/losing coolant anywhere. I will check the thermostat, I know it was replaced a couple of years ago. I may also just go ahead and R&R the water pump and timing belt since I have no idea when the belt was last done.

I also noticed the car had a high, eratic idle when I started it cold yesterday. Seems to have the same issues as this member https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=35615

Can anyone point me to where the IACV is and how to clean it?

Hope to get some time later this week to actually look at the car some more, busy weekend kept me from it.

WIAccord 10-25-2010 10:29 PM

Took the car for a drive tonight. Took less than 2 miles for the temp to come up to normal and blow heat. Temp continued to climb t othe top of the guage, just below H. No coolant leaks, no smoke out the exhaust, no coolant in the oil. Temp goes down when the engine is run at higher RPM's, I kept it at 3000 in park for about 15 seconds and the temp came down to normal o nthe guage. Any guess as to what the problem is?

hondadude 10-26-2010 10:28 AM

You did check that the cooling fans are working?
The block was burped of air thru the 12mm bleed screw at the T-stat housing?
The idea of temp coming down when running higher RPM in park would lead to some kind of flow problem, [plugged up Rad or T-stat] or water pump fins have corroded away.

WIAccord 10-26-2010 02:13 PM


Originally Posted by hondadude (Post 219938)
You did check that the cooling fans are working?
The block was burped of air thru the 12mm bleed screw at the T-stat housing?
The idea of temp coming down when running higher RPM in park would lead to some kind of flow problem, [plugged up Rad or T-stat] or water pump fins have corroded away.

Cooling fans are working.
I have yet to bleed the air for the T stat housing, that is one of the next items I was going to do. The radiator is only a couple years old, I doubt it is plugged up but it is possible. I am leaning toward the water pump being bad, had a similar problem on another vehicle I have. I will replace the thermostat first, bleed the air next and if it is still overheating, most likely replace the water pump.

PAhonda 10-26-2010 06:58 PM

When the car temperature gauge is nearing the H mark, open the hood and see if the fans are running.

If you determine that you are need to replace the water pump, I would do the timing belt as well. It is pretty much the same job with one extra step for the water pump replacement.

WIAccord 10-26-2010 10:00 PM


Originally Posted by PAhonda (Post 219965)
When the car temperature gauge is nearing the H mark, open the hood and see if the fans are running.

If you determine that you are need to replace the water pump, I would do the timing belt as well. It is pretty much the same job with one extra step for the water pump replacement.


I will check the fans next time I have it out. If they don't run, what is the most likely cause? Fuse? Relay? Bad fan motor?

That was the plan with water pump replacement, might as well do it all while i'm in there.

I also noticed yesterday, when I first started it, the idle shot up to near 2000 rpm, and stayed there. There was also an of idle stumble for the first few minutes while driving. The warmer it got, the better in ran, no high idle or stumble. What could be causing this and how is it fixed?

I really appreciate the help so far. Thank you all.

PAhonda 10-26-2010 10:47 PM

When the a/c is turned on, both fans automatically run to help cool the a/c compressor regardless of engine temperature. So your fan motors, relays, fuses, etc are ok.

I am thinking that the temperature sensor on the thermostat housing (temp sensor A) is not working, so the fans never turn on when the coolant gets hot.

When you are driving, there is enough air moving through the radiator keep the coolant at the proper temperature.


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