I have a 1993 Honda Accord that I got used form a family member. It runs but has several issues. So I am going finally fix up this year. It runs like a champ but has a lot of issues and this oil leak is one of them. It seems to be coming from the top of the engine.
Anyone have an idea as to what it is thats leaking?



Here is a close up

 

Looks like the dist o-ring leaking

 

The oil pressure sensor is nowhere near there; it's on the back of the block, about mid-elevation, near the oil filter.

The green 2-wire sensor is a fan switch.

The one-wire sensor covered with oil is the sender for the dashboard temperature gauge. It would leak anti-freeze.

There's another 2-wire sensor down there; it's a water-temperature sensor for the ECU.

First I'd clean it up real good & watch where the oil FIRST begins leaking.

Distributor O-ring is pretty high on the list of suspects.
Valve cover gasket where it turns a sharp corner to go up over the distributor.

The last camshaft-bearing-cap splits from the head along the same surface as the valve-cover. 2 of it's 4 bolts are visible just outside the valve cover. Leaking at that split line?

 

looks like a distr o-ring to me as well..........
very easy to replace,,,,,,mark the distr position,so you do not have to reset the timing , disconnect the wirings, remove the 3 bolts, .replace o-ring ,put a bit of lubricant( oil, grease, wd-40, etc. etc ) on o-ring,
reinstall ...

 

Dist O Ring. OK I get books for it this week.

 

Got some de-greaser and cleaned it up. Will watch the thing to see if I can tell where its coming from.
I am awaiting my book to see if it has the proper method on removing the distributor. (In other words in what order and remove what etc.. )
In looking it over it looks like 2 bolts are no problem but the third is buried in the back behind a wiring harness. Man the its tight in there. I think I can remove the clip that holds on the wiring harness then get that third bolt with a socket and short extension.
I also noted you mentioned that I could knock it out of time.. In case I do can I just drag it in and have the re-time it? Is that expensive?
When I started messing with cars you could do this with a timing light but now a days I have no idea how the thing really works.

Thanks..
Bob

 

I am voting valve cover gasket followed by the Dist O ring. To retime if the 93 is the same as my 95 it isn’t hard you jump a connector behind the glove box and the rest is just like it has always been. The dist has a tip like a flat head screwdriver but is thicker at one end. It only goes back in one way but you can force it in the wrong way. Mark the block and dist . on a parting line and you will be pretty close to where the timing was set.

 

Remove the distributor by removing the 3 mounting bolts (2 are visible in your first photo). But first mark it real good because it can spin in the slotted holes for those bolts. Then it pulls straight out. You want to be able to twist it back to EXACTLY the same position.


Replace the O-ring #6. The parts drawing doesn't really show the stuff sticking out the other side of the distributor, but you'll see the O-ring in a groove on the part that sticks into the engine.

 

Got a timing light? You can do the timing.

- engine all warmed up
- jumper the SCS connector just like you were going to read CEL error codes
- adjust timing by twisting distributor just like an old ford or chevy

Only problem is I don't remember if 1993 has the older-style timing marks on the flywheel, or the newer marks on the front pulley.

 

I also have a 93 accord. Replaced the oil cooler O ring after it blew out in the dead of winter, not hard to do, unscrew the hollow post the oil filter screws onto, move cooler out of way and replace O ring then reassemble. Be careful not to over tighten that hollow post. 1/20th of a turn after it tightens up which is sudden. I have a leak coming from above there now and will advise on what it was when I get it done, as these things all seem to have a uniform life span. Prob oil press sender.