Hi
New to the forum.Picked up an old Accord,2.2 automatic,runs okay getting around 22-24 mpg, I think it could be better.Yellow emissions light comes on after driving 15-20 minutes,but not all the time.When I stop and put in park the idle pulsates from 1000 to 1500 rpm up and down.if I shut it off the pulsating stops and idle returns to about 800 rpm.I noticed a crack in the intake snorkle,repaired with silicone,pulsating continues.Am considering replacing TPS although I understand it is riveted in,not really sure if that's what I need anyway.I would appreciate some direction,can't afford trips to dealer
Thank you

 

What year accord do you have? EX,LX,DX? Automatic or manual transmission? Put this information in your signature so we dont' have to keep asking.

ALso, in the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum, there is a link on how to check for engine codes that will help narrow down the problem.

 

1994 dx auto

 

I replaced radiator a couple of weeks back along with new hoses and transmission lines.I was reading in the forum about bleeding cooling system,I neglected that but did it yesterday no pulsating idle for a day.Drove it today and pulsating returned.Should I try a new pcv valve next? or throttle plate cleaning, not sure how to persue

 

Try the bleeding again....be sure the heat is set to max heat so you get any air out of the heater core.

Was the idle issue there before the radiator replacement?

A cleaning of the TB never hurts anything and cost almost nothing....a can of cleaner and a rag or two

If the CEL light is coming on....get the code(s) and let us know what they are.

Do these and let us know what you have from there.


PS- Thanks for joining

 

idle issue was not there before new radiator,also the temp gauge will not go up very far and heat is not what it was before rad change.for whatever reason bleeding system is not fixing problem,will probably change stat next.As far as getting codes Im not familiar with process on this vehicle,there is no place to plug in code reader that I am aware of.Also I had no cel before seafoam treatment
tx for reply poorman

 

To pull the codes, unplug the small blue connector on the interior passenger side of the vehicle just right under the dash and plug a pin or paperclip in the connector to allow you to get the codes. Turn the key and look at the CEL and it should blink depending if theres any codes stored. Short flashes are 1 and long flash is 10

 

Thanks I will do that

 

Check the codes. Me, since the idle issue was not there before the rad change...there is air in the system. This causes idle issues, just as you describe, and poor heat. The temp gauge should point to about "4 pm" if all is normal.

Are you using/doing the proper procedure for the bleeding?

 

Thought I was doing it right.opened bleeder while cap was off ,closed after solid stream came out after waiting for fan to come on-is there anything else?
The light has been out for a week,however the heat is **** warm not what it should be,idle is better revs up for 15-25 seconds then drops to 800,better but not there yet,pulsating is minimal compared to what it was.Temp guage not @ 4,still in shaded area