update
 

So I brought home a volt meter I have 12 volts on the black and yellow side when I unplug it and test that side. I have a buddy that says it is possibly a crankshaft position sensor. I did the paperclip in the 2 hole blue bracket on the passenger side and got no blinks but the check engine light stays on?

Your problem is not likely a bad sensor, because a bad sensor should cause the check engine light to flash a code.

The problem is likely your coil or the ignition control module, since you have voltage to the distributor. The other possibility is the ECU, but that is usually the least likely source.

I would closely inspect the wiring to the ICM that is inside of the distributor for any damage, shoddy repairs, etc..

One way to test is to remove the two wires connected to the coil. Connect a 12V test light to each lead going to the coil (you are hooking up the light in place of the coil) If the light flashes when trying to start the engine then the ECU and ICM are working properly and the coil is bad.

update
 

The next chapter. I bought a volt meter with the light fiirst I retested the plug with the black and yellow wire. Key on light stays on sweet. So I pull the cap unplug the wire off the coil I place the alligator clip(ground on the valve cover) plug the other end into the black and yellow wire crank the key and the light comes on. Does this verify the coil is junk? I feel like I'm getting close with your help thanks so much.

Bone

You are close. There are two wires on the coil. Hook the + meter lead to the blk/yel wire, and the - meter lead to the other wire (green, i think?). The light should flash.

???????
 

I saw the light when I hooked it up that way but very hard to get but it worked great if grounded on the bolt? It seemed like the green wire runs to another terminal lower physically in the distributor? I removed it completely and inspected it. It is just a short wire with connectors on each end they look fine. I am supposed to try and start the car or just go to position 2?

Bone

There are two wires that connect to the coil. I just looked it up, it is blk/yel and a blue wire. You want to disconnect the two wires on the coil. Hook up your test light. Try to start the car, and see if the light flashes.

grrrr
 

ok so I can only get the light to work when I ground it to the vavle cover bolt. When attempting to crank it the light goes out until it is left in the 2 position? I am lost it isn't making sense to me. I can pick up a new coil tomorrow I just don't want to throw money that is very tight and get no where. Thanks again for the help.


Bone

If you disconnected the coil completely, and you hooked up the test light to the two wires, then the coil is not the problem. It is likely the igniter. You can pick up one from a junkyard.

FYI: I have a post in the private/for sale section for a working coil and/or ignitor that will work on your 94EX. https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...r-parts-39244/

I had the same problem with my 95 accord that turned out to be the icm. If you have an autozone in your town they will test it for free but you have to take it out of the distributor and into the store. Just have them test it multiple times to get it warmed up as if it were in the car.

Starting over
 

Well I'm back I walked away from the Honda for awhile and just used my truck. So turns out after all the stuff from my previous posts I have had spark since the begining. I had a buddy over today and we checked everything. He thinks it is a fuel issue. I have fuel all the way up to the banjo fitting right before the injectors. We also couldn't figure out why it wouldn't attempt to start with starting fluid. I have sprayed it up the intake and directly into the spark plug holes. Neither one even sputtered. I'm so confused by this car it is getting close to letting the pros figure it out.

Bone