Hey Guys and Gals,

I just purchased a used Accord yesterday. I did what I thought was a fair tire kicking prebuy go over. We drove the car for awhile it performed flawless. It has 180,000 miles. It doesn't have door keys just ignition so it clearly had at least has an attempted theft at some time. I knew I could get door keys made so no worries. Wife drives it home flawless. Loads up the kids to go get gas gets 1/4 to 1/2 mile down the road and it dies. I go get 5 gallons of fuel still won"t start. My buddy shows up to tow it starts right up and dies at my driveway. Coast in starts right up runs a couple minutes turn it off starts back we take another drive dies about the same distance. Tow the beast home. Little later fires up dies on another test drive. This morning step dad shows up starts right up runs a couple to a few minutes and dies won't refire. Cranks like it has plenty of juice. Pulled a spark plug and cranked and noticed no spark.
Started to wonder about the theft system maybe killing the car but I can't find enough info to feel comfortable tearing into it. Seems like others have the similiar issues but the fixes head in a hundred directions. Hoping this makes sense and thanks in advance I can't take it back so I must fix it.

Bone

 

When the car is running, can you get it to stall out by shaking the key?

The 94 didn't have a stock security system that would disable the ignition system. The EX accord has a red flashing light on the stereo and that it it. If you look under the dash, is there some aftermarket unit wired in there?

Do you have a volt meter? When the car is not starting, turn the key to the II position, then check for 12V to body ground (I use the valve cover bolt) on the blk/yel wire that plugs into the two pin connector of the distributor.

 

Also inspect the distributor cap and rotor to see if they are worn out. Check the spark plugs too.

I would also check for engine codes. There is a link in the Common DIY Thread on top of the gen tech help forum.

 

Alright new cap, rotor plugs and wires. No difference I noticed under the dash on the drivers side there is a device called a code alarm 2000? Not sure if tha this stock guessing no.

 

Alarms can cause all kinds of strange problems if they start to malfunction. Do you want an alarm system in your car?

As for the door locks, you can probably have a locksmith replace the lock pins, so one key will start the car and open the doors.

 

I have no need for the alarm. I found out it actually wasn't even working the hot wire to the alarm was broke. I wired it back in just out of curiousity and the box under the dash makes constant clicking noise. So I pulled the hot wire so I don't know if it can still cause issues. It has a ton of wires plugged into it. Seems to have something for each door, trunk etc....

Bone

 

You can try to search for the installation instructions online for the alarm. I wouldn't worry about the doors locks for now. I would try to figure out how the alarm is spliced into important wires for the starter signal, the power leads to the fuel pump or the distributor. Every alarm is different.

Do the test for voltage to the distributor that I mentioned in the previous post when it isn't starting.

Get in the habit of listening for the fuel pump to prime. Turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. When the check engine light turns on for the bulb check, the fuel pump should turn on for about 2 seconds. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc and listen carefully.

Let us know if that sound is present or missing when your car is not starting.

 

I can hear the fuel pump really seems like I'm missing spark. I will bring a volt meter home from work tomorrow. I'll look up the alarm online and see what I can find.

 

So you can hear the fuel pump turning on, even when the car is not starting?

The best way to verify no spark is to use a timing light on each plug wire. See the tegger site in the very first post on the gen tech help forum.

I would check for engine codes. There is link in the common DIY threads that will help. You can also get a 94 shop manual that will have a lot of information on the wiring diagrams, etc..

 

Download the manual (see the common DIY Threads). Really sounds like the ICM or coil is getting hot....the only issue is going to be testing these while they are hot and failing.