1995 accord ex problems!
As asked, when it dies, turn the key off and back on-does the CEL come on for a few seconds and then go off (fuel pump should prime during this time) Check the main relay for bad connections.
EDIT: Sorry, slow reading. When the car is running, wiggle the key. Does it act up? Not a def test, wiggling the key, but a key switch (electrical part) going bad could also cut the power and cause the issue.
EDIT: Sorry, slow reading. When the car is running, wiggle the key. Does it act up? Not a def test, wiggling the key, but a key switch (electrical part) going bad could also cut the power and cause the issue.
Last edited by poorman212; Apr 23, 2011 at 11:12 AM.
As asked, when it dies, turn the key off and back on-does the CEL come on for a few seconds and then go off (fuel pump should prime during this time) Check the main relay for bad connections.
EDIT: Sorry, slow reading. When the car is running, wiggle the key. Does it act up? Not a def test, wiggling the key, but a key switch (electrical part) going bad could also cut the power and cause the issue.
EDIT: Sorry, slow reading. When the car is running, wiggle the key. Does it act up? Not a def test, wiggling the key, but a key switch (electrical part) going bad could also cut the power and cause the issue.
As answered before wiggling the ignition does nothing.
Last edited by BLOWN95GT; Apr 23, 2011 at 11:50 AM.
No but I have wiggled it while running just to see if it would make a difference. I just jumped the two prong plug again and it finally gave up a code.
I got 2 longe flashes and a short flash, code 21 anyone know what this is?
I got 2 longe flashes and a short flash, code 21 anyone know what this is?
Wiggling the key will only verify a bad ignition switch if the car stalls. If the car doesn't stall, you could still have a bad electrical portion of the ignition switch.
I would disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables.
I would disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables.
Code 21 = VTEC spool solenoid valve. Doesn't help with the stalling....Check the oil level.
The BLK/YEL wire into the the coil/ICM - Can you hook up a test light to it and watch it when/as the car dies out?
The BLK/YEL wire into the the coil/ICM - Can you hook up a test light to it and watch it when/as the car dies out?
cleaned the battery terminals it cleared the vtech solenoid code but the car still acts the same I poked the black wire with the yellow stripe coming from inside the distributor but the light bulb never did anything? the car actually killed itself out after I gave it a 2000 rpm rev it died out and I had to crank it back up but no codes are saved in the ecu.
I am currently having the same problem as you I think. I have a 95 accord sohcvtec, auto. 178k, just had tranny rebuilt.
It is intermittent, and the rpms drop randomly even when on the gas, then they shoot back up, happens a few times before the car dies. Mine sometimes starts right back up (sometimes shuts off then) but every now and then wont start at all..
I have been dealing with this since dec., cant find the issue, believe it distributor related.
It is intermittent, and the rpms drop randomly even when on the gas, then they shoot back up, happens a few times before the car dies. Mine sometimes starts right back up (sometimes shuts off then) but every now and then wont start at all..
I have been dealing with this since dec., cant find the issue, believe it distributor related.
Also for me, when I start the car the d4 light will light up by itself just as im turning the key then when it starts it goes off, untill I put it in d4. Idk if that is related, or if that means my rebuild was messed up


