1995 honda accord fuel system
#1
1995 honda accord fuel system
i have a 1995 honda accord 4 cyl. engine will turn over and has spark replace fuel pump relay fues are good removed tank applied 12 volts to pump and reassembled still wont start checked voltage at sending unit have 12 volts at center pin 6 volts at other and assuming the other is ground is that correct and is there another switch for this fuel system (inursa)cant anybody help PLEASE
#2
I moved your post to correct section for problems.
When you turn keyswitch to On, does Check Engine Light come on for 2-3 secs and go off? Can you hear the fuel pump in the fuel tank buzz for the same 2-3 secs?
Need to be sure fuel pump is not working and perhaps something else (blocked fuel filter) is causing absence of fuel delivery. A crude fuel pressure test is to crack the banjo bolt on fuel rail. If fuel pressure sprays forcefully (crude!) then fuel pressure may be OK and fuel injectors may not be firing for some reason.
Have you attempted to start w/ throttle body cleaner or starter fluid sprayed (5-10 sec blast) into intake air duct? If engine does not start, this suggests spark is too weak to ignite fuel or absence of spark.
good luck
When you turn keyswitch to On, does Check Engine Light come on for 2-3 secs and go off? Can you hear the fuel pump in the fuel tank buzz for the same 2-3 secs?
Need to be sure fuel pump is not working and perhaps something else (blocked fuel filter) is causing absence of fuel delivery. A crude fuel pressure test is to crack the banjo bolt on fuel rail. If fuel pressure sprays forcefully (crude!) then fuel pressure may be OK and fuel injectors may not be firing for some reason.
Have you attempted to start w/ throttle body cleaner or starter fluid sprayed (5-10 sec blast) into intake air duct? If engine does not start, this suggests spark is too weak to ignite fuel or absence of spark.
good luck
#3
thanks for moving post new to this i have soaked a rag with gas and put to intake engine did run checked voltage at sending unit connecter that supplies voltage to fuel pump ther are 3 wires getting 11 v at green pin (center pin) gettig 6 v at yellow pin and nothing at black pin checking voltage at pins to ground screw in trunk is this correct voltage
#4
You are checking at the fuel sender connector, not the fuel pump. Wire colors I have in 94 manual for fuel level sensor are blk (grnd), Yel/blu (center), and Lt Grn/red.
Fuel pump connector should be at same location beneath the cover plate and has blk/yel (12V power to pump) and blk (grnd).
You have confirmed ignition is working so fuel delivery is problem. It can be main fuel relay, fuel pump, or wiring.
Also small possibility that fuel injection system is not working. This is very rare.
I had to rig a tell-tale light/wire to the blk/yel fuel power in the trunk and route to cabin where I could see if power was available (light on) when engine dies. I found that fuel pump was the problem. I also noticed that when this happened, repeated on/off/on/off... would kick start the fuel pump. As soon as I heard fuel pump run for 2-3 secs and go off, starting was possible. New fuel pump was solution.
good luck
Fuel pump connector should be at same location beneath the cover plate and has blk/yel (12V power to pump) and blk (grnd).
You have confirmed ignition is working so fuel delivery is problem. It can be main fuel relay, fuel pump, or wiring.
Also small possibility that fuel injection system is not working. This is very rare.
I had to rig a tell-tale light/wire to the blk/yel fuel power in the trunk and route to cabin where I could see if power was available (light on) when engine dies. I found that fuel pump was the problem. I also noticed that when this happened, repeated on/off/on/off... would kick start the fuel pump. As soon as I heard fuel pump run for 2-3 secs and go off, starting was possible. New fuel pump was solution.
good luck
#5
thanks for your response its a 1995 honda accord dx with a four cyl. there is only three wires running to fuel tank with a wiring harness running from the pump along the back outside of the tank to the sending unit with the connecter hooking this harness to the only three wires running to the tank i have ohmed this harness out,just by the beeping sound of the meter. againd the wires read 11 v and 6 v with black not reading
#6
I think I see the confusion. Connector for fuel pump is above the fuel sender conver plate (in trunk). Yel and Blk are power and grnd.
The connector for fuel sender unit is under the cover plate and connects directly to fuel level sensor. Probably only shared wire is ground (blk).
Fuel Pump has only two wires (Yel and blk). Not sure if green is part of fuel sender or something else. Fuel sender unit has 3 wires as described above.
Yel wire should have 12V when keyswitch is first energized for 2-3 secs, and then power will cut off (main fuel relay opens). Measuring fuel pump power is a challenge w/o someone to operate the keyswitch. That's why I rigged the tell-tale light.
good luck
The connector for fuel sender unit is under the cover plate and connects directly to fuel level sensor. Probably only shared wire is ground (blk).
Fuel Pump has only two wires (Yel and blk). Not sure if green is part of fuel sender or something else. Fuel sender unit has 3 wires as described above.
Yel wire should have 12V when keyswitch is first energized for 2-3 secs, and then power will cut off (main fuel relay opens). Measuring fuel pump power is a challenge w/o someone to operate the keyswitch. That's why I rigged the tell-tale light.
good luck
#7
againd thanks for your respond iam getting 6v on the yellow wire with key turned on( i have help with turning key ) with the old and new relay new relay from parts house from internet 20$ wondering if new relay could be bad anyway of checking or bypassing relay any idea why iam only getting half voltage
#8
If you have a manual, you can remove MFR, and jumper blk/yel to yel. Fuel pump should come on and run when keyswitch is turned on.
Have you checked for 12V on blk/yel at the MFR? A failing keyswitch might cause low voltage to the MFR.
good luck
Have you checked for 12V on blk/yel at the MFR? A failing keyswitch might cause low voltage to the MFR.
good luck