Resistance measurements aren't that accurate. Your VOM could have enough error to get inside the spec. I would call your results as good sensor, indicating likely ECU fault.

good luck

 

Mine measures 340Ω and runs fine.

What's the number on your ECUs? The old one that was originally in the car, and the new one you picked up at the junkyard.

 

Well what do you guys think?

 

I think if you had a wiring problem, the resistance readings at the distributor and the ECU would be drastically different.

Since you swapped the ECU, I would swap the distributor with a used one (unless you already tried this, you never answered my question).

 

I still think for some reason the reluctors on the pulley are not being read. The additional load from actually driving the car vs. idling might have caused the pulley to move a little due to a faulty or weak keyway. This would mess up the indexing which makes sense to me since you are getting spark to one cylinder.

 

Seems like it's time to get very systematic, and don't take anything for granted. Few things that people have asked for, or suggested you try; but you don't respond directly about those things. Go back and give us answers to earlier questions so we don't have to guess whether you answered these things in private messages.

One thing I'm beginning to suspect is mis-matched sensors, pulsers, & ECU. Between 95, 96, 97, 98 Honda made some serious changes to the timing sensors. Not only moving from the distributor (OBD-1) down to the crank (OBD-2) but I think the nature of the signals might also be different. Lets start out with a concise list of what you actually have:
ECM from 19?? donor car, part # ?????
Distributor from 19?? donor car (or from parts store, etc)
CYP sensor in distributor has or has not been messed with?
CKP/TDC sensor (at the crank) from 19?? donor car.
Pulser (part of timing sprocket) original from your car? From what donor car??


- Roader asked for numbers from your ECUs (orig & new). What are they? You responded to that request by saying "what do you guys think?" I don't know which ECU is which, but hopefully someone will post some kind of list. For that matter, I don't know if the Honda part # somehow is unique for the year.

- At one point you suggested running a wire directly to the ECU. Did you try that? Did it work? Did it result in the same situation of only getting spark on #3?

 

the distributor on my car now is from a 1996 lx same as mine and I've replaced the ignitor,cap and rotor inside of it. I couldn't get the screws out of the base of it so I left the sensor which I seen the screws for untouched.
I bought a brand new crank position sensor. Put it on before the new head was installed it was was a cel that I thought was a problem at first but compression test showed 2 dead cylinderds from interference of the timing belt breaking.
The original ecu is from june 12 1996. #37820-POB-A20
The ecu I picked up is from Dec 8 1995 #37820-POB-A20. They told me it was for a 1996. I assumed it was because it was manufactured so late in the year.
I don't know what a pulsar is but if its the sprocket the timing belt wraps around behind the crank its originally from my car. And I don't even know what a reluctor is lol. But also from my previous post the ressistance on the cyp at the distributor connector is 340ohms which is the same at the ecu pins c4 and c14 on that connector.
I hope I answered all the previous questions guys. I apologize for not responding accordingly earlier. Hooefully we can come up with something here lol.

 

Reluctors are on this car I believe are on your crankshaft sprocket and is what the CPS reads to determine crankshaft position as it rotates.

 

And ae they built into the sprocket? Can they go bad but how are they read by the cyp sensor if that's down by the crank and the cyp sensor itselft is built into the distributor housing? Idk I guess I'm jut curious asking all I can lol knowledge is power lol

 

Its your relay under above the pedals..a buddy of mine hade the same problem