1996 Accord Idles rough and stalls
#1
1996 Accord Idles rough and stalls
Hi there hoping to hopefully gain some help here. I have a 1996 Accord 2.2 non v tech motor. Basically what is happining is car will start when cold no problems. After it has reached operating temperature it will start to idle rough then after a while just die. Will not crank up unless u turn to on like 3 times and then crank it. It will Crank if you hold the gas pedal though. You can drive it and seems smooth above 1200 RPMs, but once you slow and stop you have to stay on the gas. There is no CEL light on. I can hear the fuel pump click on everytime.
Things I have done:
-Check fuel pressure regulator, checked good
-Clean fast valve/IAC valve
-Check for vaccum leaks
-Looked for bad wires
-PVC, checked good
I know my ECU works, I unplugged the IAC connector and started her up and boom CEL gave me the code for it. I had a bad Secondary O2 sensor which was replaced. Has brand new exhuast also... new cat everything.
I have googled and read through my chiltons book but no avail.
Things I thought could be:
-Conrol temperature sensor(but no CEL light, figure this was no good it would set a code off)
-Fuel filter(maybe, but no hesitation once pass 1200 RPMs)
-Crank sensor(but no code)
-Maybe fuel injectors?(maybe but would think hesitation on 1200rpms)
Otherwise I am at lost here and hoping what else anybody would think. Thank you.
Things I have done:
-Check fuel pressure regulator, checked good
-Clean fast valve/IAC valve
-Check for vaccum leaks
-Looked for bad wires
-PVC, checked good
I know my ECU works, I unplugged the IAC connector and started her up and boom CEL gave me the code for it. I had a bad Secondary O2 sensor which was replaced. Has brand new exhuast also... new cat everything.
I have googled and read through my chiltons book but no avail.
Things I thought could be:
-Conrol temperature sensor(but no CEL light, figure this was no good it would set a code off)
-Fuel filter(maybe, but no hesitation once pass 1200 RPMs)
-Crank sensor(but no code)
-Maybe fuel injectors?(maybe but would think hesitation on 1200rpms)
Otherwise I am at lost here and hoping what else anybody would think. Thank you.
#4
With it being the timing, doubt it.
#5
Well today I started the car. After it got down to normal idle started running rough. I check the EGR and it was open. I thought the egr is supposed to be closed except during acceleration and hard engine rpms? Any thoughts on this?
When I unplugged the vacum line it ran smooth. Plugged the line back in and EGR was closed and it was running good.
Just no CEL light for the EGR, but seems like it could be my problem.
When I unplugged the vacum line it ran smooth. Plugged the line back in and EGR was closed and it was running good.
Just no CEL light for the EGR, but seems like it could be my problem.
#6
EGR valve should not have vacuum at idle;
Are you sure the line hasn't been switched some way?
plug the vacuum line [golf T works great] and then drive the car a couple of drive cycles, you should trip an EGR lift sensor code.
Are you sure the line hasn't been switched some way?
plug the vacuum line [golf T works great] and then drive the car a couple of drive cycles, you should trip an EGR lift sensor code.
#7
Problem solved, I remember when I changed my brake booster I took those lines off. There is a clip that holds both lines(one from EGR and one to the intake) and rember this morning that the clip didnt look like it was right to me when I uninstalled. Flipped lines around back to normal! Good thing to becuase I had an appointment to bring into a garage. Good thought on line switching, got me to thinking.
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