1996 Accord LX 2.2L
 

Ok, this sucks. lol This is the second time typing this all out. But anyhow, I hope that theirs someone out there that can help me out. I've been having some issues with this car and truthfully I'm close to just throwing in the towel. I've invested more time and money in this thing than I should've but I guess a lot of you can relate. Anyways, a little background I just put a new engine in this car. I bought what I thought was a OBD2 engine that turned out to be a OBD1 engine. After switching out the oil pump, crank timing parts, the dizzy, and a few other parts it seems to be ok other than it wont rev past 3k. My original thought was the crank sensor, but then I thought that it shouldn't run if that part was bad. But I thought maybe it was out of adjustment, but the search lead me no where. Then I thought to maybe try and test its continuity, but then again I didn't find anything, but other than that the engine runs ok. After it was installed in the car, somehow the trans housing got cracked. So then I had to outsource another trans. So after finding one and buying it, I found out that it was out of a 94. A Honda friend told me that it wouldn't work, but I didn't listen and installed it anyhow. Everything that I had checked said it should be fine, so why not right? Seems to work fine other than the fact the D4 light was lit. Once I changed out the 3/4 shift solenoid it was fine. I would like to fix this car and continue to drive it. I dont have much time on my hands to just stop and do it. This is my DD and being that I cant have it down for long. So if there is anyone of you guys who would be wiling to help me out and give me some pointers it be awesome. You'd figure that seeing how I've been working on cars since I was 16 and am now 35 Id be able to figure it out. LOL But with some personal things going on right now and not really having the right resources to research stuff I cant seem to figure it out.

Did the engine swap fix the original problem with your car?

Check for engine/trans codes and post any codes on here. Your car has an OBD2 port behind the ashtray, or you can check the OBD1 way. See common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum for a write-up. Do you have an OBD2 scanner that can read codes or live engine data?

The map sensor and tps sensor have identical connectors that can be switched. The map sensor has 3 wires and the color should be yel/wht, grn/wht, and wht/yel. The TPS wire colors should be grn/blu, red/blk, and yel/blu.

There is another set of connectors that can be switched on the driver's side of the engine bay. The fuel injector resistor block is one of the components that could be swapped. The injector resistor should have 5 wires where 4 of the wires are red/blk and the 5th wire is red (I think). I can't remember the other component, but the wire colors should be much different.

The original problem was the engine was blown. So I knew when I bought it, it needed the engine. I dont have access to a scanner, especially one with the live data. But I have had history codes checked from the parts store and there weren't any trans or engine codes. That's another thing that blows my mind. But I have checked the TPS/MAP sensor wiring, I believe there right but I'll recheck anyway. The injector block I havent checked tho, i will check later today and let you know.

About the only things I know of that would limit the engine rpms are the TVS and MPS plugs swapped, and the wire or solenoid for the VTEC valve being off/broken.

Check the engine codes the obd1 way where you short a blue 2-pin connector under the glovebox with a piece of wire or a thin paperclip. See the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum for the details.

Is your new engine a vtec or a the LX/DX 16-valve non-vtec.

Download the 94 shop manual that you can find online. Search for CD7_CD9.pdf. The 94 accord is almost identical to the 96. Make sure you have all the grounds connected in the engine bay. There is an important ground on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold that grounds the engine computer.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...7a2b72daad.jpg
MAP sensor plug
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hon...02738f35f8.jpg
Injector block plug, and main harness plug
As you can see these plugs are right. I'm not sure where to go from here. Plus how can that injector block get switched, there's not another plug right there w only 6 wires?

Its a non Vtec. I'll check the codes the old way and see if anything comes up and let you know. I have been looking at the SM for this car to diag some other things, but it doesn't give me much info on this issue.

You have the map/tps connected correctly.

The connector on top of the bracket next to the resistor block with the 4 red/blk wires is for the resistor block. There is an identical connector (at least on the 95 accord) that is the exact same size. It may be the connector below with the blue wires. I can't tell from the picture, but make sure the connector on top actually feeds the resistor block and not something else. It's bee about 8 years since I owned my 95, so I can't remember where the other connector that was identical is located. This might only be able to happen on the 94/95. It is simple enough to check.

Ok, so after alot of deliberating and unesecary confusion. It was in fact the crank sensor. I took it to my buddy who works at a local shop and it works fine now. I will say that I took a chance on a cheap alternative from Amazon, and so far so good. Going a week strong. All I can do now is hope and pray it holds out a while. Thanks for those who helped.

In that case, you might want to get a genuine Honda part to have on hand if it goes bad.