My 97 accord always blows warm air......Even when its a cool evening, the air coming from the vents (on Recirc or Fresh air setting) is alwaysnoticeablywarmer that the outside air even with the temp knobrotated to full cold..The AC performance is'nt very good either (yes I've checked the charge)...I've played with heater valve on the firewall but there seems to be no change...I've read themanual for the R&R of the heater core and I'm in no real hurry to go down that road....Does anyone know if there is any type of "door" or blocking plate at the heater core where the air mixes (to control air temp) that may be not closing completely to block airflow at/from the heater core?? The MM I have doesnt really cover anything right at the heater core??

Kudos to those on this BB who spend thier time helping others!!! You guys are great, and you nailed my last problem on the first try!!!

 

This one is not up my alley, but there are a few AC experts on here that should be able to give you some advice.
Does the AC compressor clutch engage when you turn on the AC?

 

On the Hondas, the blower driven air always flows over the heater core. If your hot water control valve is not completely closing air will be warmed despite your turning the temp control to full cold. There is an adjustment process to link the push/pull wire to the control linkage so that fully closed valve corresponds to full cold temp setting. I would suggest downloading the 94-97 Honda Accord Shop Manual from hondahookup.com. It will have the necesary adjustment procedure for your car.

You say you've "played w/ the heater valve on the firewall". Did you determine that you have heating w/ valve in fully closed position? If yes, then valve may be defective (new valve required). You can verify this by feeling the return hose which should be only slightly warm if valve is fully closed. If it's same temp as inlet hose, then valve is not closing. For heating to occur, the heater core flow valve must be letting warm water flow through the core. Either bad valve or valve is never closing due to linkage problem.

No need for a new heater core unless you have a leak.

good luck

 

sounds like a bad valve or misadjusted heater cable,,, like texas said , it could be a bad heater valve possibly leaking slightly ,
try this : start the car up and put a/c on, use a thermometer to chk the a/c output at the vents ( **** on full cold of course + make sure heater valve closes all the way ) , Now get a flat tip needle nose or a flat tip vise grip, squeeze the heater hose GOING INTO THE VALVE, if the a/c temp drops at vents you got a leking heater valve ,,

 

Thanks for the tips....I'll be under the hood (again!) Tomorrow!! I'll update after a little troublshooting....I feel like I should be taking the guys helping out a beer or something....Anyone from Columbus OH??....Cheers!

 

I might leave Texas for a beer, but not O HI O is too far

regards

 

OK...Another good fix compliments of tips from this BB!! After a bit of troubleshooting I found that my heater control **** was cracked onthe keyed partand did'nt close the valve completely when you turned it to full cold...Before I discovered this my AC tempwouldonly drop to 58 degrees at the center vent after about 5 minutes....Now it drops to 44 degrees!! Nice and chilly!!Thanks again for the tips!

 

when i had my 94 that thing would crack every 2 years. at one point, i thought about buying several at a time.

 

Thanks for the followup.

If you haven't replaced the ****, I've had some success w/ repairing them using a combination of J&B epoxy and ripstop nylon to reinforce. Epoxy missing part back in place. Roughen the stem, apply thin layer of epoxy, wrap epoxy-butter nylon layer around step (1 layer only), and apply a final thin layer of epoxy over the wrap. If you get too thick the **** won't enter the opening correctly. I've had a repaired **** working on my 94 EX for a couple of years. You can find new or used ***** on ebay frequently.

good luck

 

i think they were only like 6$ at the dealer...though that was a while ago.