1. Do the following lights work?The above question is to check if a splice to a junction connector was affected, this is not part of the other connectors I listed in my previous posts.

2. To see whether the problem is before or after the C413 connector, have to check whether there is power coming through the Red/Blk wire at the C413 (test done with headlight switch turned ON).

3. Your posts mentioned no dash lights and taillights, plus your previous test for voltage at the Red/Blk wire at connector C602 (18-P Blue connector at the front of the interior fuse box) stated no voltage. If there is power at the Red/Blk wire at C413, this would lead me to believe the problem is at the wire harness or connector going to the rear of the interior fuse box at C403, or is a problem within the fuse box (like I mentioned in my previous post).

4. To answer your question regarding re-routing the wire. From studying the circuit diagrams, I don’t believe you can just re-run one wire to one place, unless it was the Red/Blk wire from C413 to C403 that is causing the problem. You may even be able to find the problem area and repair the wiring; it can even be a loose or damaged C403 connector behind the fuse box.

If the Red/Blk wire at C413 has power, you can probably splice and re-route power wires to the Red/Blk wire at C602 (to power dash lights) and C502 (to power the rear lights). If the lights in question #1 (above) don’t work, then it may require an additional re-route wire.

 

You can always try like in the other thread you referred to (regarding the 91 Accord), and see if that works.

 

So my Dad and I (he's a mechanical engineer by trade and understands the wiring etc. MUCH more than I do) played around with this last night.

We checked fuses again, all fine and we checked power at the black / red wire at the 3pin harness behind the dash light dimmer switch and the c413 connector - no power at either of them.

He had an interesting idea of trying to locate where the loss of power was. So we took a long 20g or so wire and made a connection between the 20p black / red wire connection on the blue c413 connector and the positive on the car battery itself. THIS immediately turned on the running lights, dash lights, etc.

So, then we figured that we could splice power into the black / red wire that should possibly fix the problem. We did that. BUT when we did the splicing he cut the wire so it was NOT connected to the c413 connector anymore but instead took a wire from that huge mess of an old alarm in the above pic (since removed) that was carrying 12 volts and ran it directly to the red/black wire. Thinking this would work, we tried it and NOTHING. Even though the black / red wire itself was getting 12 volts.

Then we did a similar move with the 20g wire and connected it directly to the black / red wire on the 3pin connector that plugs directly into the dash dimmer switch - again all running lights came on, dash lights, etc. SO, then he cut THAT black / red wire and spliced power directly into that black / red wire going into the dimmer switch with 12 volts, thinking that would work, and it did not.

Obviously, while the dimmer switch is now literally getting 12volts of power, it is still not working because we cut some complete circuit by cutting the black / red wires and connecting them to DIFFERENT power instead of keeping them connected to the circuit itself and ADDING power to it?

Any thoughts?

 

This goes back to post #4, since there is no power at the Red/Blk wire at the 20-P connector (C413), check for power at the Red/Grn wire at the same connector. The problem may be right in that area, either the connector wiring there or leading up to the combination light switch, or the combination light switch. If power is coming through the Red/Grn wire from the fuse box (via fuse no. 32), and the headlight switch is turned on, power suppose to run through the Red/Blk wire to power all the small lights.

Since you have no power at the Red/Blk wire at connector C413, the problem is upstream.

 

Did I ever say I HATE ELECTRICAL issues .......sorry I know this doesn't help or add anything.

 

redbull: That diagram helps TREMENDOUSLY - thank you. I'll check the Red/Green wire ASAP.

poorman: I hear you... seems like most other problems are infinitely easier to diagnose...

 

Okay so full 12 volts coming into C413 connector from red / green (at #6 I think?) and then ONLY 7 volts coming OUT of C413 at the black and white wire (#20 I think out of the c413 connector).

Is it supposed to lower the voltage like that? OR is that part of the problem?

 

Headlights BTW still work fine even with #20 black and red only running 7 volts... I assume they are on a different wire / power in the column light switch that the running lights...

 

In post #17 you talk of a black-white wire.....then in post #18 there is talk of a black-red?

Arre you taking the voltage reading on/at the wire? If so, pull the wire and check the "pin"......looking for a bad connection, the female connector on the wire could be bad/dirty/ect.

 

Well fortunately the problem is fixed...

Unfortunately, I am not 100% sure of what FIXED the problem... while connecting back a couple of wires to C413 connector all of a sudden, the audible ping went off telling me the lights were on. I went and checked and somehow the dash and running lights were all working correctly. For the last week or so since then they have been just fine. Best I can guess is that one of the wires (the red / green carrying power to the connector is my guess) was not making correct contact and not passing along power.

Thank you all, especially redbull-1, for all of the help!