1998 Accord: Disreputable Auto Transmission? - Page 2 - Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums


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  #11  
Old 03-14-2017, 03:44 PM
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Default Transmission not shifting properly

i haven't checked for any codes, didn't want to ruin transmission driving to Advance Auto. So I'm going to check solenoids and try to get fluid level where it's supposed to be. My D4 light does not illuminate when I shift, can't remember if it ever illuminated. No obvious instrument lights. I'm crossing my fingers hoping it is something simple....never is!
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  #12  
Old 03-14-2017, 03:46 PM
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Default D4 codes

Do I jumper the same pins that I used to get codes for my ABS for the D4 lights?
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  #13  
Old 03-15-2017, 10:17 AM
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Same pins.

Each lamp flashes its own code according to its own list of errors, all at the same time.
- check-engine lamp for engine/emissions errors
- D4 lamp for transmission errors
- ABS lamp for ABS errors
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  #14  
Old 03-19-2017, 05:47 PM
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I checked and don't have any flashing codes from D4 after jumper ing the testing port. I don't know maybe the D4 light is burnt out. I wish this was an easy fix as I have put a lot of money into it and it's probably not worth it. Does anyone know what has fixed their car from not shifting up from 3rd to 4th? I may not even be getting to third. Should I be looking at the control solenoid or what?
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  #15  
Old 03-19-2017, 06:13 PM
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You should get the codes before replacing any parts.

I'd say fix the D4 bulb, so you can get the codes. You should be able to swap the D2 and D4 bulb on the cluster.

Your other option is to get a cheap OBD2 code reader at one of the chain stores to read your codes.
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  #16  
Old 03-20-2017, 11:44 AM
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If the D4 lamp doesn't come on when you shift, then you have to fix that before reading the codes. Guess I wasn't paying attention to that part.

The alternative is to get the codes from an OBD-2 code reader that can display transmission codes.
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  #17  
Old 03-20-2017, 07:06 PM
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Default OBD-2 codes

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Originally Posted by JimBlake View Post
If the D4 lamp doesn't come on when you shift, then you have to fix that before reading the codes. Guess I wasn't paying attention to that part.

The alternative is to get the codes from an OBD-2 code reader that can display transmission codes.
so I swapped my light so D4 is working but does not flash, so I borrowed a OBD-2 reader and I have 3 codes P0141 H2S B1 S2 heater circuit malfunction ( don't think this would prevent my shifting issue) P0122 Throttle Position Sensor Low Voltage & P1106 Baro Sendir Performance. So when time permits I'll troubleshoot the last 2 codes, I hope that this will miraculously fix my shifting issue.
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2017, 08:02 PM
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Update, after I read and cleared the codes I took car for a slow trip around neighborhood, still does not shift up to 4th gear, it may be going into 3rd. Re-read codes again and I now only have 2 codes P0141 & P0122. I did recently change the MAP sensor and had the throttle body off when I cleaned the throttle body and intake. Will the throttle sensor affect the shifting? Thought for sure I would be getting codes for transmission. I think I'll still end up pulling the solenoids and test & clean. Possibly I damaged this sensor?
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:09 PM
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What are the wire colors going to the map sensor and the throttle position sensor?

Did you have this shifting problem before you pulled the throttle body off the car?
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  #20  
Old 03-21-2017, 08:54 PM
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The wires going to the TS are yellow, red, green. I made a mistake it wasn't MAP sensor it was the IAC that I changed. I didn't have the problem per say before I removed the throttle body off, my issue was the car revving excessively which was the IAC. I had high water which was up to the axles from Huricane Andrew. I just replaced all new wheel bearings, ball joints, upper control arms, new rack and Pinnion. Tonight I took the top solenoid that has six bolts off and cleaned the screens, nothing visable, actuated the solenoids. Took all electrical connectors off and sprayed contact cleaner and air dried. Only connectors I couldn't get to are the ones under the starter. I did replace the starter and alternator recently as well. Strange is I'm not getting any codes for transmission but I did get that throttle position sensor code. So I put battery back in, will try tomorrow again to see if anything made a difference. If I'm still getting the TPS code is there anything I can check on it before I remove and replace it? I understand I have to cut a slit in the screw to remove the TPS and then there are some steps for installation that I'm a little confused with. I assume the throttle body is closed in normal position, how do I actuate it to wide open if this is what I have to do to check the ohms? I could use some electrical troubleshooting training!
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