So have had SRS and ABS light on my sons car since it was flooded back in October. Has been sitting 4 months, son went in the Navy so has not needed a car and I have had other priorities. I just finished this weekend replacing all the wheel hubs with new bearings, new lower ball joints, upper control arms, rotors and pads. Car is now running pretty good, exhaust still sounds a little rough (from extended water in tail pipe), I got the SRS light reset and now only light is the ABS. I previously checked the sensors at the ABS module and all 4 were putting out the same OHM. I cleaned the sensors also when I replaced the wheel bearings this weekend. My son did before the flood complain that the car would occasionally not shift out of park. This happened to me this weekend before I drove it into my driveway. I'm thinking my Brake switch might be faulty...is it possible for this to cause a constant ABS light? I bought a code reader on line but I don't think it was designed for the cars year. Car is dead for state inspection but wanted to see if anyone has a suggestion.

 

Just to be clear, I'm only getting the ABS light and I have a maintenance minder that aluminates but goes out after a couple seconds. I probably need to have a code reader put on but would like to know if there is a steady input from brake switch that I could check with a meter.

 

1998 maintenance lamp is only based on odometer miles. Not functional at all, you just reset it yourself when you change oil. It'll stay on solid when it gets to a certain mileage since last reset. See owners manual.

Then the best thing is a code reader that can read ABS codes. There's 2 pins in the OBD-2 port that you can short, but I don't know which pins. If you do that, the ABS lamp will flash it's code sorta like the CEL flashes it's error codes.

 

Thanks Jim, going to try and get a better code reader that will read the codes. I saw a u tube video on jumping a connector but I don't believe it was the OBD plug and it was on the passenger side. I just have a feeling that my brake switch might have something to do with my ABS light at least I'm hoping that it might, probably a lot cheaper than a module. I have already replaced the battery and alternator and checked all the fuses ABS and clock fuse on the passenger side fuse box. Just hoping it is something simple.

 

Going off the 98-02 Accord Electrical Troubleshooting manual (pg 44) it shows that 9 (brown wire) and 14 (lt blu wire are the two you're looking for. These two connections might also be #1 and #6, as they are "Non-SAE terminal number used in the service manual". I have no idea what that means though.
I hope this helps.

 

Up through 1997 the older OBD-1 connector was still there along with the newer OBD-2 connector; maybe that's the video you saw.

Be careful with that, there's certain other combinations of pins that can damage your PCM if you short them.

Who knows, maybe it's a simple fix somewhere in the ABS system. It's not just the brake switch vs. disaster, there's other things that can be relatively simple too.

 

Shorted ABS pins and these are the ABS codes
12 faulty fron right wheel sensor pulse signal
32 "solenoid???
54 main relay stuck off
81 CPU

What is logic in repair, change front right wheel sensor?

I did have semi high water intrusion, and I may have induced damage when I attempted to start the car shortly after the storm had passed. I really can't remember because it was several months ago

 

I'd start at the RF sensor. It's fairly cheap to buy thru RockAuto.
The solenoid is in the ABS unit under the hood.
Don't know if the "main relay"is the same one that feeds the car.
I doubt the CPU is at fault. That's an expensive piece of hardware to replace.
I'd start at the top of the code list and work my way down. Just my take on things.

 

Just replaced the right wheel sensor...no joy��, also I replaced my brake light switch thinking that was causing my shifter not to shift...no joy��. Fricken car is pissing me off, not to mention that the R/front sensor was a tad shorter than original had to improvise the mounting in engine compartment but that wasn't my problem. Still indicating the same 4 codes 12, 32, 54, 81. I need to bleed the brakes, they feel spongy but looking like the ABS is going to be a little more $$ what the hell is code 32? Solenoid for what?? I assume that's the block the CPU attaches to. This car is beginning to cost me more than my jeep toy!

 

Ok, basicaly DTC 12 is the RF sensor, DTC 32 is RF outlet sensor, 54 is the Fail Safe relay, and 81 is the ABS CPU (seperate from the main ECU).

Ok, so going thru the troubleshooting process, DTC 12 can also be a CPU problem or the harness leading to the wheel sensor.
DTC 54 is a relay in the under hood fuse box, but they want you to check the 20 amp fuse 1st, then check the relay. If the fuse is blown, the wiring harness between the relay and the pump motor relay is gooing to ground somewhere and needs to be fixed. Then it goes thru testing the relay itself, then the harness to the relay from the fuse. Then it checks other side of the relay to the solenoid of the modulator unit (the ABS pump motor -- pg 19-69). Then you're going to check for continuity between the fail safe relay and the ABS unit.
And you need to check those before doing DTC 32.

DTC 32 is basically the same as doing code 12, except your checking the yel/blk wire from the ABS control unit and the sensor. It's an "output" sensor lead to the control unit. I think DTC 12 in the ïnput side"of the wheel sensor if that makes any sense.
DTC 81 is the ABS unit itself, and it's either good or bad, but 1st you have to clear ALL the codes, before you can see IF it coughs up a DTC 81 code. If it does, it's bad. If it doesn't it's good.

Sorry if I shortened up the testing explaination, but I figured if I gave you short version, it might give you some places to look. Also keep in mind that the 98-02 FSM's are available online, and you're basically wanting to look at pages19-53 thru 19-68 for ABS stuff, and that's a lot to type and still won't give you pictures that are on those pages.
I hope this helps.

P.S. I'm sure glad my 99 doesn't have ABS.