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1998 Honda Accord LX DTC code P0420

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  #21  
Old 06-14-2012, 08:25 AM
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Last entry for this problem.

It has been over 3 weeks and no problem. No fume smell, no stumbling at stop lights, no hesitation when pressing on the gas, and no service engine light.

One nice thing now that I changed those parts is that I am getting about 50-75 extra miles per tank!

Again, I suspect one of those parts had a leak and was either letting air into the vacuum, or a valve was stuck open letting gasoline fumes into the intake manifold.
 
  #22  
Old 08-26-2012, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rockhoundrob

repairs made by replacing:

Solenoid valve set... part # 17012-S84-A01
Valve (2-way) ....... part # 17371-S84-A01
Sensor Vent pressure.. part# 37940-PAA-A01
and all connecting hoses

I originally replaced these parts to get rid of the gasoline fume smell. It has been over a week and no smell, but also the check engine light does not come one any more. So I hope the catalytic converter should be ok.
In the aftermath would you still replace all three parts, or is there one that you feel was the culprit? Thank you for posting the results. And you are right, on most forums people figure out the problem and never post the solution.

Also, do you think it would be a good idea to run some Seafoam or another fuel additive through the system to clear it?
 

Last edited by ONe21; 08-26-2012 at 04:46 PM.
  #23  
Old 08-29-2012, 08:32 AM
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I am sure just one of those parts was bad, but you have to take all three parts off the car (as 1 unit) to disassemble it. So I would still replace all three, because all 3 parts are connected together with rubber hoses and an o-ring. The rubber hoses could crack if they are brittle, etc..

The whole replacement cost about $225. So I would hate to replace 1 part and then realize it was the other one... and have to take it back apart again, order parts again, etc...

It has been over 3 months now and no problem with the gas fume smell and the check engine light does not come on with the catalytic code.

Well worth the money and trouble...
 
  #24  
Old 08-29-2012, 08:34 AM
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I looked again at the question...

If you were short on money, then I would just replace the valves ( both of them) and not the pressure sensor.
 
  #25  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:53 PM
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i have the same problem my accord smells of gas all the time and the only code im showing is p0420 my research says that it is a sensor letting me know i have a fuel leak normally with this code my first guess would be to replace the cat but because i have a gas smell i started looking for a leak causing this code instead i replaced the gas cap as that is the first thing they recomend before spending a load of cash but that did not work so i put the car up on the lift and narrowed the smell down to the evap canister. my question is did you replace the whole canister and surronding parts with fuel lines? or just a couple parts here an ther i see your list of what you did. did that fix it? i dont see the evap canister on your list did just those few parts fix it?
Originally Posted by rockhoundrob
Looks like the problems are solved. *** been over a week***
i have the same problem my accord smells of gas all the time and the only code im showing is p0420 my research says that it is a sensor letting me know i have a fuel leak normally with this code my first guess would be to replace the cat but because i have a gas smell i started looking for a leak causing this code instead i replaced the gas cap as that is the first thing they recomend before spending a load of cash but that did not work so i put the car up on the lift and narrowed the smell down to the evap canister. my question is did you replace the whole canister and surronding parts with fuel lines? or just a couple parts here an ther i see your list of what you did. did that fix it? i dont see the evap canister on your list did just those few parts fix it?
1) car hestiates sometimes (about once every 10 minutes), nothing now
2) gas fume odor (not the fuel line, but smelled it right near the parts I replaced), no odors now
3) service engine light came on, with code P0420-catalytic converter efficiency below threshold. Used to come on every other day and had a rotten egg smell sometimes. Nothing for a week now....

repairs made by replacing:

Solenoid valve set... part # 17012-S84-A01
Valve (2-way) ....... part # 17371-S84-A01
Sensor Vent pressure.. part# 37940-PAA-A01
and all connecting hoses

Got the parts on the internet at Majestic Honda.
www dot hondaautomotiveparts dot com

I originally replaced these parts to get rid of the gasoline fume smell. It has been over a week and no smell, but also the check engine light does not come one any more. So I hope the catalytic converter should be ok.

The only thing that surprised me is that when I took the valves off, there was old gasoline ( dirty blackish) dripping out. I don't think this is supposed to happen since it is on the EVAP system and should only be handling fumes, not liquid.

As for why the engine light came on, I can only guess that maybe too much fuel fumes was getting into the vacuum lines due to a defective valve, causing the O2 sensor to give a bad reading thinking the CAT was going bad?

Again, thanks to everyone who gave their inputs!
 
  #26  
Old 07-01-2013, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by hatcha713
i have the same problem my accord smells of gas all the time and the only code im showing is p0420 my research says that it is a sensor letting me know i have a fuel leak normally with this code my first guess would be to replace the cat but because i have a gas smell i started looking for a leak causing this code instead i replaced the gas cap as that is the first thing they recomend before spending a load of cash but that did not work so i put the car up on the lift and narrowed the smell down to the evap canister. my question is did you replace the whole canister and surronding parts with fuel lines? or just a couple parts here an ther i see your list of what you did. did that fix it? i dont see the evap canister on your list did just those few parts fix it?
Hatch, if the evap canister is leaking or smells, you should see a crack on the container. I would take that part out, but look at the hoses closely. that are connected to the canister. Rubber gets brittle with age. if you take the hose of and it breaks, then no loss there, just replace the hoses.
 
  #27  
Old 11-23-2013, 12:50 PM
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Default I have P0420 too and after fixing P1457

Earlier this week ,the canister vent valve + canister set was replaced on my 2000 honda accord SE (4cy, AT). A couple months ago, the Evap Bypass Solenoid valve was replaced (since we found it was not engagin beyond certain pressure generated by mittys vaccum).

When the Evap bypass solenoid valve was replaced, gasoline dripped out of the 2-way valve. Is this bad? Please please write. We just shook the contents off, maybe cleaned is with pressured air and put it all back together. Surely, P1457 came back. I was nervous when I saw gasoline drip...i thought it was only fumes or does the canister charcoal trap fumes and magically send gasoline to the engine or is it fume-rich air to the engine for combustion?

well, around 50 miles of driving and when I was driving at around 65-70MPH, the CEL came on and at autozone, code P0420.
 
  #28  
Old 11-25-2013, 03:37 PM
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Hi,


1) The P1457 mean that you have a vacuum leak of some kind. Sometimes, it's just the gas cap, but some times its other vacuum hoses. There are several hoses in the area of the EVAP canister. Check those, even for hairline cracks, etc. When I changed the parts on my car, I went ahead and put new hoses on to be safe. also check the vacuum hoses around the engine.


2) As for the fuel coming out when you took the EVAP apart. If you had just a little bit coming out, I wouldn't worry about it. Most common cause for fuel getting into the EVAP canister is "topping" the tank off. Again, the fuel getting in there can also be caused by a vacuum leak. The leak allows fuel vapor to collect in the canister, but cannot dispense.


3) Do you still smell gasoline when you get out of the car? try to find the area where you smell it the most and check the hoses/parts in that area. check fuel lines, solenoid (near the EVAP systems), and the vacuum hose that goes from the EVAP to the intake manifold. You might check the fuel pressure regulator too (pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and see if fuel comes out, or you smell fuel). if you do, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the rubber vacuum tube.


4) The P0420 is about the catalytic converter. Most likely the cause is because of the fuel leak / vacuum leak related to P1457. Find the vacuum leak and get rid of the fuel smell FIRST. Then, your P0420 code should stop.


5) to answer all the general questions. there should not be fuel coming out of the solenoid. you should replace the 3 units in the area of that solenoid, since you have everything taken out ( but not the EVAP canister, these rarely go bad, unless it was hit by a rock and cracked). I would have replaced the evap solenoid because those things can be intermittent. When I had the P0420, P1457 code and the fuel smell, I replaced 3 items and a few vacuum hoses. YES, it was a shotgun approach, but I have not had any problems since. I just didn't want to take it apart 3 times, and replace one thing at a time.



6) I just checked a website out and here is what it says...
The EVAP bypass solenoid valve can fail due to corrosion. The solenoid valve may get water inside. If the water contains road salt, the solenoid windings could corrode, causing the valve to fail. I think you should replace this unit. If you only cleaned it out with and air hose, that may not do any good.


Let me know how your progress goes!
 

Last edited by rockhoundrob; 11-25-2013 at 03:51 PM.
  #29  
Old 11-26-2013, 05:33 PM
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hi rockhoundrob,

thanks for your reply.

I wanted to clarify - P1457 is gone after adding a new canister vent valve and evap canister set. After 50 miles of driving, P0420 code showed up. 2 months ago, I replace EVAP bypass solenoid valve too. I dont smell gasoline fumes. I do see white smoke coming out of the tailpipe in the mornings when I first start the car cold (maybe it is because it is in the 30-40degrees F here?)

When the EVAP bypass solenoid was replaced, I observed fuel dripping out of the 2-way valve.
 
  #30  
Old 11-26-2013, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jolpot
hi rockhoundrob,

thanks for your reply.

I wanted to clarify - P1457 is gone after adding a new canister vent valve and evap canister set. After 50 miles of driving, P0420 code showed up. 2 months ago, I replace EVAP bypass solenoid valve too. I dont smell gasoline fumes. I do see white smoke coming out of the tailpipe in the mornings when I first start the car cold (maybe it is because it is in the 30-40degrees F here?)

When the EVAP bypass solenoid was replaced, I observed fuel dripping out of the 2-way valve.

Replace the CAT with a Honda part asap.
 


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