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1998 honda accord VTEC 2.3L Shift Problems

  #1  
Old 04-08-2014, 05:27 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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Default 1998 honda accord VTEC 2.3L Shift Problems

Hello all,
I am currently in a predicament, I have been noticing my honda (175,000 miles) a hard shift when shifting up through the gears (primarily 1>2 and 2>3) noticeable at higher gears). I know that my accord has the 6th generation transmission that has been known to prematurely fail. However, through research into the problem I have noticed that there are possible alternatives to the transmission dying. The fluid level seems fine and while the fluid is brown it does not smell burnt. Also It had a full swap at 100,000 miles. Today I stopped at my local autozone to have the codes for my check engine light (has been on for a while) and generated the following codes :
P1259 - VTEC system malfunction
P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1
P1705 - stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear

Through my research I have seen possible causes of this could be low battery voltage (my battery is corroded), clogged catalytic converter, and bad solenoid.

I am currently looking to sell my honda and I am wondering if I should take steps to try to remedy the problem or should I just sell the vehicle as is?
 
  #2  
Old 04-08-2014, 10:13 PM
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Location: Katy, TX
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P1259 is a malfunction of the vtec oil pressure switch or Vtec solenoid circuit. It can be a fault in wiring or component.

P0420 is catalytic converter efficiency below spec. Usually means a new cat converter must be installed, but an exhaust leak can sometimes cause this code.

P1705 is an electrical short fault of the transmission range switch (electrical fault. Also can be component or wiring fault.

Low battery can cause problems, but not usually set codes like these. I would suggest having battery tested, and clean the battery cables thoroughly.

Faults present will significantly impact value of car.

good luck
 
  #3  
Old 04-09-2014, 09:54 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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I noticed this morning that the D4 light does not illuminate when I put the car into drive. I am not sure if this would help diagnose my problems any further. I think I am going to replace the battery and catalytic converter to see if that remedies the problem to any extent.
 
  #4  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:52 AM
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Super Moderator : And A Texan
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Location: Katy, TX
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It's been 75K since ATF was changed. Most would say you're overdue for a drain/replace of ATF.

Check Amazon for Magnaflow converter. It has good ratings, price, and is a bolt on replacement. Walker may be good also.

D4 light out simply means the bulb is burnt out. Not uncommon as this bulb burns far more than any other trans position bulb.

good luck
 
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