Hi All, new member trying to figure out what the heck is wrong with his GF's Accord.

I've already looked through this thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=13343. And went through the diagnosis.

Her car is a 1999 Accord EX 4cyl, auto, car does have 180k miles.

We have done the following:
-Replaced the brake switch
-Tested connector for brake switch by jumping cables
-Added a voltmeter to the mix to check current
-Checked to ensure connector was grounded
-Replaced #47 20A fuse.

Last night my roommate and I went through all the diagnosis. When we installed the new switch and tested it, the 20A fuse would blow the second we would open the circuit. We then tested the connectors, they were fine. Reset the switch, installed a new fuse, viola! Car had brake lights and shifted out of park. She and I drove the car from my house, to dinner, back to my house, and then drove it to work this morning without a problem.

This afternoon when going out for lunch, she and I came to the car - tried to shift it out of park, but of course - we were locked out again. I popped the hood and checked the #47 20A fuse - blown again.

What could be causing the issue? I've heard the horn relay could be bad. Could there be a bad ground? Could there be a bad wire? Running out of ideas, and its kind of frustrating that after all the diagnosis, it wound up working last night, and the stopped working again at lunch today.

Any help would be appreciated, or knowledge of where I can get wiring diagrams for the 1998-02 Accords.


Thoroughly frustrated, KM

 

The Online Manuals thread in the DIY section has a spooner link I posted with a 98-02 shop manual. It is an iso file, so you will have to burn it to a cd for it to work. It may be for European Accords, but it still will help with your car.

Looking at the power distribution on 23-B-14, that fuse protects:

Ignition key light
key interlock solenoid
security relay 2
security horn
ECM
ABS modulator
Cruise control unit
Multiplex control unit
PCM
High mount and L/R brake lights
Horn relay, horn switch, and both horns

Would the fuse blow when you closed the brake switch (like what happens when you hit the brakes)?

 

When I hit the brakes - the fuse blows. When I replaced the fuse, I honked the horn (didn't touch the brakes), the fuse did not blow. The second I tap the brake pedal and engage the brake switch, the fuse blows.

Her car has also had the ABS light on for a few weeks (if not months) now. The issue with not being able to get out of park only started this past Friday.

My roommate and I believe the wiring at the connector may be bad, since it looks to be intermittent (we messed with connector the other night, new fuse, car shifted out of park no problem for about half a day, then it stopped working again) - we were going to splice off the wires and connect directly to the plug to test that. I'm not sure how else we could test it.

I'll take a look at the manuals!

 

Since the ABS light is on and that is part of the brake circuit, I would unplug the main abs fuse. See if the problem goes away.

 

Yeah, this sounds like fun.
my method of trouble shooting would be to get an ohm meter with one lead to ground; then start testing the wires that are 'outbound voltage' from the switch.

Rear light harness will need to be unplugged at the tail lights.

When you find the one wire that grounds the circuit, you can start doing point to point [connector to connector] tests of the harness.
Check carefully any places the wire harness might flex, like at the trunk hinges.
By any chance does this car have an aftermarket wing on the trunk deck?

 

Yes, but it's been on the car for 9 years.

I'll take some of these suggestions tonight when I get home.

 

Issue resolved - faulty Yellow/white wire on the connector. It seems as if the wire became loose in the pin, so when we jumped the yellow/white to black/white, the paper clip would hit the wire itself in the pin and complete the circuit, but when it was connected to the brake switch, it would short because it wouldn't get any power. I made a switch and used the male quick-disconnect pins and hooked it in, the circuit would not complete.

I bypassed the connector in the harness and hooked it all up - car is working good as of this morning. I'll head to a junkyard one weekend to get a new connector and rewire it into the car.

 

So the issue came back. I had disconnected the brake light in her aftermarket spoiler as well, and left it for awhile after this whole fiasco. About a 2 week ago I reconnected the brake light to see if anything would occur. For 2 weeks there were no issues. Then, as she was leaving her house the other night, the car would not move from "P". No horn, no lights. STOP fuse (20A) blew again. So last night, I unplugged the 3rd brake light and replaced the fuse. The fuse blew the second she stepped on the brake pedal... I'm lost. I rewired the faulty wire and thought that would fix the problem - apparently not.

So a few things to note on the car:

1.) The car has an aftermarket stereo - subs, amps, head unit, new wiring for speakers, etc.
2.) There seems to be water leaking in to the taillights SOMEHOW. (Could this cause a short?)
3.) My girlfriend has also noticed that at night with her lights on, the lighting around the gear shifter is very dim, but when you tap it, it lights up more.

 

Yes, the water in the lamp housing could cause a short. Look at the gaskets, or maybe you have to get creative with some caulk?

 

I know water could cause a short, but when she turns on her headlights, the running lights for the taillights still light up, and the lights in the taillights are dual-filament for brake and running lights. Wouldnt that cause a short too if there's water?