1999 Honda accord CEL-P1457 Code
#1
11-13-2013, 09:42 AM
1999 Honda accord CEL-P1457 Code
Hi all, I got a P1457 CEL and I cleared it couple of times but it won't go off. I saw Jim Blake has a couple of very informative threads. I figured that canister shut off valve was the culprit and I figured I d replace it. In order to do it. Do I need to Jack up the car or Can I just do it by crawling underside the car?
#2
11-13-2013, 11:32 AM
I can't see from here... how big are you?
Well, besides being a wise-@$$; you can take a look under the rocker panel, pretty much below the left-rear seat. There wasn't a lot of room to work, so I personally found it easier with the car lifted. Make sure it's supported very solid, so it doesn't come down on you.
The canister is down under the car, and that valve is attached on the end closest to the box-frame section of the rocker panel. The little Phillips-head screws might be stuck pretty good, depending on corrosion wherever you live. I had a tough time with one of them & I needed some elbow room. I used a small-ish screwdriver bit that's supposed to go for an electric screwdriver, but I turned it with a wrench as I pushed it firmly into the screw. I was just about ready to remove the canister from the car when that screw finally came loose. PB Blaster might be a good idea here, soak overnight.
While that vent-shut valve is a likely culprit, you might want to test it before spending $60 on a new one. In my case, when I put battery-power directly to the valve, it didn't even click.
Well, besides being a wise-@$$; you can take a look under the rocker panel, pretty much below the left-rear seat. There wasn't a lot of room to work, so I personally found it easier with the car lifted. Make sure it's supported very solid, so it doesn't come down on you.
The canister is down under the car, and that valve is attached on the end closest to the box-frame section of the rocker panel. The little Phillips-head screws might be stuck pretty good, depending on corrosion wherever you live. I had a tough time with one of them & I needed some elbow room. I used a small-ish screwdriver bit that's supposed to go for an electric screwdriver, but I turned it with a wrench as I pushed it firmly into the screw. I was just about ready to remove the canister from the car when that screw finally came loose. PB Blaster might be a good idea here, soak overnight.
While that vent-shut valve is a likely culprit, you might want to test it before spending $60 on a new one. In my case, when I put battery-power directly to the valve, it didn't even click.
#3
11-14-2013, 06:43 AM
thanks for your reply Jim. I m basically skinny but any way I would raise the car as you said it would give more elbow space to work with. I m actually planning to dissemble the whole canister assembly before I can unscrew the vale. Any suggestions? I m planning to test the valve before buying a new one. What tools do I need to test this thing as I have nt done it before?
#4
11-14-2013, 11:06 AM
The simple test for any of those solenoids is simply apply battery power directly to the solenoid's plug. Either run long wires from the battery, or use some kind of 12v lantern battery. Does the valve click when you apply 12v?
Next level is to check it opening or closing. Use a MityVac if you have one, or just try to blow air through it. Don't go crazy with an air compressor set to high pressure, this is just low-pressure stuff. Some of those valves are normally closed (open when energized) & some are the other way around. No matter, you want to see it change.
Next level is you can get a Helm repair book. There's several pages of detailed testing just for that one error code. But it says which valves are normally-open or normally-closed. And it also has testing for the fuel-tank pressure sensor & other stuff that aren't as simple as a solenoid valve.
Next level is to check it opening or closing. Use a MityVac if you have one, or just try to blow air through it. Don't go crazy with an air compressor set to high pressure, this is just low-pressure stuff. Some of those valves are normally closed (open when energized) & some are the other way around. No matter, you want to see it change.
Next level is you can get a Helm repair book. There's several pages of detailed testing just for that one error code. But it says which valves are normally-open or normally-closed. And it also has testing for the fuel-tank pressure sensor & other stuff that aren't as simple as a solenoid valve.
#6
11-14-2013, 12:55 PM
The simple test for any of those solenoids is simply apply battery power directly to the solenoid's plug. Either run long wires from the battery, or use some kind of 12v lantern battery. Does the valve click when you apply 12v?
Next level is to check it opening or closing. Use a MityVac if you have one, or just try to blow air through it. Don't go crazy with an air compressor set to high pressure, this is just low-pressure stuff. Some of those valves are normally closed (open when energized) & some are the other way around. No matter, you want to see it change.
Next level is you can get a Helm repair book. There's several pages of detailed testing just for that one error code. But it says which valves are normally-open or normally-closed. And it also has testing for the fuel-tank pressure sensor & other stuff that aren't as simple as a solenoid valve.
Next level is to check it opening or closing. Use a MityVac if you have one, or just try to blow air through it. Don't go crazy with an air compressor set to high pressure, this is just low-pressure stuff. Some of those valves are normally closed (open when energized) & some are the other way around. No matter, you want to see it change.
Next level is you can get a Helm repair book. There's several pages of detailed testing just for that one error code. But it says which valves are normally-open or normally-closed. And it also has testing for the fuel-tank pressure sensor & other stuff that aren't as simple as a solenoid valve.
#7
11-15-2013, 09:06 PM
Not sure what you mean; I've never seen a multimeter that's only capable of measuring 9v.
To test the valves, you apply power from your car battery (or a substitute 12v) to the valve. When you do that, you listen for the valve to operate and/or check whether it opens or closes. You don't need a multimeter at all.
To test the valves, you apply power from your car battery (or a substitute 12v) to the valve. When you do that, you listen for the valve to operate and/or check whether it opens or closes. You don't need a multimeter at all.
#8
11-17-2013, 03:20 PM
Not sure what you mean; I've never seen a multimeter that's only capable of measuring 9v.
To test the valves, you apply power from your car battery (or a substitute 12v) to the valve. When you do that, you listen for the valve to operate and/or check whether it opens or closes. You don't need a multimeter at all.
To test the valves, you apply power from your car battery (or a substitute 12v) to the valve. When you do that, you listen for the valve to operate and/or check whether it opens or closes. You don't need a multimeter at all.
#9
11-18-2013, 11:19 AM
There's another solenoid valve at the canister, you can check that one the same way.
There's also the EVAP purge valve on the intake manifold. It's screwed onto the front side of the plenum portion of the manifold. Apply battery voltage & check it.
For each of these valve, can you check whether they open/close? Yours might have a subtle failure where they leak when they're supposed to be closed?
Have you seen the checks in this thread, it should have more detail. I've been assuming that you already saw this one.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-1999-a-27179/
For each of those valves, you can check the wiring. One wire for each valve should have battery voltage when the key is ON. The other wire (on each valve) should have good connection back to the PCM.
There's also the EVAP purge valve on the intake manifold. It's screwed onto the front side of the plenum portion of the manifold. Apply battery voltage & check it.
For each of these valve, can you check whether they open/close? Yours might have a subtle failure where they leak when they're supposed to be closed?
Have you seen the checks in this thread, it should have more detail. I've been assuming that you already saw this one.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-1999-a-27179/
For each of those valves, you can check the wiring. One wire for each valve should have battery voltage when the key is ON. The other wire (on each valve) should have good connection back to the PCM.