I use my 2000 Accord for work and I have trouble getting it to start in the middle of the day(hot days in particular). It acts like it isn't getting enough gas to idle. It will start as long as I give it a little gas and it clears up after driving a block or two. It tends to get progressively worse in the afternoon but starts just fine if it sets for 45 minutes to an hour even in the heat. Today it was 90 and giving me fits but it set from about 3 pm to 4 pm in the sun and started just fine.

The check engine light is on and I don't have the codes right here with me but they are "valve 1 misfire, valve 2 misfire, valve 3 misfire, etc" right down the line. The car has a new fuel pump (installed yesterday) and that did absolutely nothing to fix the problem. The mechanic seems to think the pump was defective off the shelf and it's under warranty but from reading other threads this sounds more like a relay problem. I'm not much of a mechanic but I'd like to be able to point my guy in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Replacing part # 39400-S84-003 fixed the same problem you are experiencing on my '98EX V-6. I believe it's the fuel pump relay / main relay assy and it's located under the dash (on my car). They're around fiddy bux...good luck bro

 

Thanks for the response. I was leaning that way from reading different posts on here however it did not fix my problem. Monday will make 3 weeks of this and roughly $500 with no success. I'm starting to get a little frustrated

 

I wish I'd been on here the other day... Suggest listening for the fuel pump to verify it is or is not running, before replacing the main relay.

What's the mileage and general tune-up stuff? How old are the spark plugs?

 

While my car has starting issues also I haven't had CEL. I'm not sure if you have a main relay problem but I do and I plan on resoldering this week as soon as the soldering iron comes in the mail. Someone stole mine. The dead giveaway was the immense heatwave the U.S. has been experiencing this week which caused far more starting issues than normal. Then I realized the fuel pump wasn't whirring nor was the main relay clicking afterwards. If it wasn't for the heatwave I would have never noticed but I did (because of it) and now it looks like I'm going to be rid of this starting problem that has been plaguing my car for good.

You might also want to confirm it's the main relay by taking it off and inspecting it if you don't hear the fuel pump or the clicks. Some pictures are great instructions are in the link below. If you see broken solder joints then you know there's something wrong with it.

Main Relay Fix, Troubleshooting (Honda, Acura) and how to solder

I hope you don't sink more money into a goose chase blindfolded.

 

+1 main relay Fixed my problem.

 

That main-relay fix has been successful for a LOT of people. But we shouldn't pretend that EVERY hard-starting problem has the same cause.

ALWAYS do enough diagnosis to convince yourself that you're going down the proper path. A statement like "trouble starting when hot" can have so many different meanings depending on who says it.

 

The car has 166k on it. I bought it used and have put the last 40k on it myself but it was a very well maintained car. I need to dig around and find the maintenance records and check on the plugs.

 

I think(?) it calls for new sparkplugs at 100k miles. If the previous owner replaced them, then it might not be out-of-line for you to replace them again. It's early (vs 200k miles) but plugs are a normal maintenance item anyway.

I think the 2000 had coil packs & doesn't have a distributor. If I'm wrong about that, you can check the plugs wires & distributor cap. With the engine completely cooled down, wait for complete darkness - 3am or something like that. Open the hood, turn off all the lights, & start the engine. Look for arcing around the distributor or wires. Replace anything that lights up.

Not related to starting problems, but check to make sure your timing belt was replaced.

 

I finally had to take it to the dealer. They claim that the lower retaining clip for the fuel pump was missing which was causing it to move around a bit and lose fuel pressure when the lines started expanding in the heat. The mechanic who initially changed the fuel pump said there wasn't a clip there to begin with so in theory that could have been my problem all along. We'll see after I drive it for a day or two. I was charged $1 for the clip and $80 for an hour's labor. If it fixes it I'll be relieved but I'm not holding my breath.