2000 Accord LX Crank No Start
#1
2000 Accord LX Crank No Start
Okay, so I bought a 2000 Accord LX four cylinder automatic. I bought it not running for a couple hundred bucks. When you try to start the car, everything comes on fine. All of the dash lights come on including the CEL and the green key light.
The car cranks, but does not have spark or fuel. I tried replacing the main relay, because I cannot hear the fuel pump run, nor am I getting spark. I have checked to make sure the timing belt was intact, and it's still in time as far as I know.
Another weird thing, is that when you turn the key off, some of the lights in the instrument cluster stay on, and the fan controls, but almost at a weak level. This can only be corrected by taking the terminal off the battery.
I figured at this point I could replace the ignition switch, considering they had a recall. I've still not had luck with the dash lights staying on and still no start.
Link of a video of what's going on with the dash
The car cranks, but does not have spark or fuel. I tried replacing the main relay, because I cannot hear the fuel pump run, nor am I getting spark. I have checked to make sure the timing belt was intact, and it's still in time as far as I know.
Another weird thing, is that when you turn the key off, some of the lights in the instrument cluster stay on, and the fan controls, but almost at a weak level. This can only be corrected by taking the terminal off the battery.
I figured at this point I could replace the ignition switch, considering they had a recall. I've still not had luck with the dash lights staying on and still no start.
Link of a video of what's going on with the dash
#2
I'd probably start by looking under the driver's side dash for an aftermarket alarm. If there is wiring that is obviously spliced, follow it to the alarm control box.
You will need a volt meter to do some electrical testing. Do you have a code reader?
You will need a volt meter to do some electrical testing. Do you have a code reader?
#4
I'd recommend purchasing a shop manual from automanualsource.com for around $22. It will save you lots of time and pay for itself after the first repair.
The wiring diagram shows that a lot of dash lights get power from one fuse, yet only a few lights remain on. To me, this seems like a disconnected or corroded ground issue. I'd use that shop manual to find every ground possible. Disconnect the battery. Unbolt the ground connection, clean the eyelet and bolt with a wire brush or sandpaper, then reattach.
The wiring diagram shows that a lot of dash lights get power from one fuse, yet only a few lights remain on. To me, this seems like a disconnected or corroded ground issue. I'd use that shop manual to find every ground possible. Disconnect the battery. Unbolt the ground connection, clean the eyelet and bolt with a wire brush or sandpaper, then reattach.
#5
Could be a bad ground somewhere, but I think the clue is when he said the code reader did not connect to the PCM, that = NO Communication. Check power and grounds at the PCM, or at least disconnect the PCM and check the connectors and terminals.
#6
bringing this one back, ended up fixing the ground issue, now the dash lights don't do the goofy **** they were before. I'm still having an issue with no spark though. Not sure if I am or am not getting fuel, I have not had the time to get there with a fuel pressure tester. I can't hear the fuel pump prime but I can smell gas after I crank it long enough. What is the possibility the cam sensor has gone bad? I hear it is in the distributor. Can anyone confirm this?
#7
So now that you have fixed the ground issues, can you pull codes from the PCM?
Yes, the cam sensor is in the distributor, Honda calls it a CYP (cylinder position sensor). You'll also find the igniter in the distributor...I suspect that may be your issue.
Yes, the cam sensor is in the distributor, Honda calls it a CYP (cylinder position sensor). You'll also find the igniter in the distributor...I suspect that may be your issue.
#9
I will check the codes again soon, and see if my scanner will communicate with the PCM. I used to barbaric method of jamming a screw driver in the plug wire. I need to get my hands on a proper spark tester, but for now this works. Plus, I sprayed ether into the intake and it did not even try to start.