Hello I bought a 2000 honda accord sedan ex
and was left sitting for few year and has has had a engine swap.

My problem is it wont shift out of park and the the brake lights dont work and the one rear left blinker and light right under it does not come on. Literally literally everything else works fine all other blinkers and the rest of the running lights just got a new brake light switch and nothings changed. Fuses supposedly look fine my bro said and don't thing its just the bulbs I was thinking some sort of wire short on just that one side but idk.

 

Look at the installation of the brake light switch. Sometimes the switch isn't bad, but the plastic piece on the brake pedal that pushes the switch can break, so pushing the brake pedal does not push in the switch.

If you want to do some electrical testing, the white/yellow wire going to the brake switch should have 12V. When testing using a volt meter, put your negative volt meter lead on a bare metal bolt nearby as your good ground. The red lead goes on the pin for the wht/yel wire.

 

I found out that that the two left rear lights had no bulbs in them put some in and now they're both lighting up and all my blinkers work but still no brake lights at all I took some pictures by the brake pedal with the brake pedal push down and without it pressed.
look weird with that electrical tape on there.




also was wonder what electrical testing tool you would recommend if I were to do some testing.

 

The brake pedal stopper pad is suppose to be where someone attached the electrical tape.

You need the stopper pad for the brake light switch to work properly for the brake lights and shift interlock.

Honda part # 46505-SA5-000 or generic Dorman part # 74015.

 

Definitely replace the plastic stopper pad that is missing. It is an inexpensive part and very easy to install.

Once replaced, unplug the electrical connector to the brake switch. Loosen that top brass nut and adjust the depth of that plunger on the brake pedal switch where you could slide a credit card in the gap. Unplugging the electrical connector makes sure you won't twist the wires when installing. You want a small gap, so your brake lights turn on when you are lightly touching the brake pedal to warn others behind you that you are slowing down. If you adjusted it to where it touches, your brake lights could remain on at all times.

 

Okay thanks for the info I will get one of the brake light stoppers and do what you said hopefully that's the issue I've had that makes me have no brake lights not even the middle the third brake light and the issue were won't shift out of park unless I do it with the screwdriver. All update fall goes well.

 

I'm not sure that's the issue...

Look at the 2 photos. It looks like the cobbled up thing with electrical tape actually DOES press in the little button on the brakelamp switch.
(the usual failure is the plastic button falls apart, it never presses the button when the pedal is up, and therefore the brake lights are always ON)

 

Okay the brake stopper was not my issue
so hears a full run down the horn does no work the radio does not work and the cigarette lighter is really corroded in side all that with the brake lights not working. So me and my bro found a Blown yellow 20a Stop fuse in in the fuse box under the hood replaced it and and my brake lights started working. Then we pressed the horn and the fuse blew instantly so we put a new fuse and got brake lights but not pressing the horn again. Also one thing to note is the the radio and lighter fuse was blown tried replacing it and it blew instantly every time. Going to get a new cig lighter because the other ones definitely shot. So what do you think the problem is bad horn or lighter or wire short.

 

Is the lighter/radio a different fuse than the horn/brake light fuse?

 

the radio and the lighter are on the same fuse
And is in passenger side panel doesn't say horn.
The brake light fuse is under the hood and is labeled Stop.