2001 Accord idle surge after 6 months of not starting the car
#1
01-07-2012, 10:13 PM
2001 Accord idle surge after 6 months of not starting the car
Hi. My dad's 2001 Accord was parked outside and not started for over six months.
I finally did start it last week and let it idle for a few minutes.
The first minute, the idle was just rough.
After I came back two minutes later, the idle was surging every few seconds between 1000 and 2000 RPM.
I turned off the engine after about 5 minutes.
I'm pretty sure the Check Engine light did not go on during that time - so no point in trying to read OBD codes, right?
I asked my car-savvy friend and he said it's either bad fuel or the rats chewed through some wiring in the engine.
I'm gonna take a look under the hood for some chewed wires next time i visit my dad, but I'm hoping it's just 'bad fuel' - the additives got separated from the pure gasoline.
Can someone pls recommend some kind of gas treatment to buy and pour into the (currently full) gas tank?
I'm hoping i won't have to drain the 15 gallons of old gas and add new gas.
It's a 2001 4-cylinder Accord with automatic, 198k miles.
Thanks.
I finally did start it last week and let it idle for a few minutes.
The first minute, the idle was just rough.
After I came back two minutes later, the idle was surging every few seconds between 1000 and 2000 RPM.
I turned off the engine after about 5 minutes.
I'm pretty sure the Check Engine light did not go on during that time - so no point in trying to read OBD codes, right?
I asked my car-savvy friend and he said it's either bad fuel or the rats chewed through some wiring in the engine.
I'm gonna take a look under the hood for some chewed wires next time i visit my dad, but I'm hoping it's just 'bad fuel' - the additives got separated from the pure gasoline.
Can someone pls recommend some kind of gas treatment to buy and pour into the (currently full) gas tank?
I'm hoping i won't have to drain the 15 gallons of old gas and add new gas.
It's a 2001 4-cylinder Accord with automatic, 198k miles.
Thanks.
Last edited by adkant; 01-07-2012 at 10:24 PM.
#2
01-08-2012, 12:13 AM
Idle problems tend to happen when there is air in the coolant system or the idle air control valve is stuck.
I would start with checking the easy maintenance stuff.
When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is filled with coolant. Top it off if it is not filled to the top. The next step is to bleed any air out of the system. You may want to change the coolant anyway. There is a good ericthecarguy video on filling and bleeding the coolant.
You can run some fuel system cleaner through the fuel tank. It can't hurt.
I would suspect that bad wiring to a critical component would cause the check engine light to turn on. It can't hurt to stop by a parts store and have the codes read.
Also check clean all ends of both battery cables to make sure they have a clean connection.
Take a look at the air filter to make sure nothing nested in there and is blocking air flow.
It can't hurt to inspect the spark plugs. Also inspect the spark plug wires for cracks and also take a look at the distributor cap and distributor rotor. I would consider replacing the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and air filter if they look suspect or they are past due. The maintenance schedule should be in the owner's manual.
I would start with checking the easy maintenance stuff.
When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is filled with coolant. Top it off if it is not filled to the top. The next step is to bleed any air out of the system. You may want to change the coolant anyway. There is a good ericthecarguy video on filling and bleeding the coolant.
You can run some fuel system cleaner through the fuel tank. It can't hurt.
I would suspect that bad wiring to a critical component would cause the check engine light to turn on. It can't hurt to stop by a parts store and have the codes read.
Also check clean all ends of both battery cables to make sure they have a clean connection.
Take a look at the air filter to make sure nothing nested in there and is blocking air flow.
It can't hurt to inspect the spark plugs. Also inspect the spark plug wires for cracks and also take a look at the distributor cap and distributor rotor. I would consider replacing the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and air filter if they look suspect or they are past due. The maintenance schedule should be in the owner's manual.
#3
01-08-2012, 01:39 AM
Administrator
Idle problems tend to happen when there is air in the coolant system or the idle air control valve is stuck.
I would start with checking the easy maintenance stuff.
When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is filled with coolant. Top it off if it is not filled to the top. The next step is to bleed any air out of the system. You may want to change the coolant anyway. There is a good ericthecarguy video on filling and bleeding the coolant.
You can run some fuel system cleaner through the fuel tank. It can't hurt.
I would suspect that bad wiring to a critical component would cause the check engine light to turn on. It can't hurt to stop by a parts store and have the codes read.
Also check clean all ends of both battery cables to make sure they have a clean connection.
Take a look at the air filter to make sure nothing nested in there and is blocking air flow.
It can't hurt to inspect the spark plugs. Also inspect the spark plug wires for cracks and also take a look at the distributor cap and distributor rotor. I would consider replacing the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and air filter if they look suspect or they are past due. The maintenance schedule should be in the owner's manual.
I would start with checking the easy maintenance stuff.
When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check that the radiator is filled with coolant. Top it off if it is not filled to the top. The next step is to bleed any air out of the system. You may want to change the coolant anyway. There is a good ericthecarguy video on filling and bleeding the coolant.
You can run some fuel system cleaner through the fuel tank. It can't hurt.
I would suspect that bad wiring to a critical component would cause the check engine light to turn on. It can't hurt to stop by a parts store and have the codes read.
Also check clean all ends of both battery cables to make sure they have a clean connection.
Take a look at the air filter to make sure nothing nested in there and is blocking air flow.
It can't hurt to inspect the spark plugs. Also inspect the spark plug wires for cracks and also take a look at the distributor cap and distributor rotor. I would consider replacing the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and air filter if they look suspect or they are past due. The maintenance schedule should be in the owner's manual.
#4
01-08-2012, 02:50 PM
Here's a 10-second video of the idle surge
surging idle problem with 2001 Honda Accord after months of not starting the car - YouTube
surging idle problem with 2001 Honda Accord after months of not starting the car - YouTube
#5
01-08-2012, 05:07 PM
another video of an normal start until the surging idle problem shows up at 0:54.
2001 Accord Idle surge 50 seconds after start - YouTube
2001 Accord Idle surge 50 seconds after start - YouTube
#6
01-08-2012, 05:39 PM
Thanks for replying to my first post.
Still trying to avoid a trip to a mechanic.
Is it significant that the surging starts not right away but like 50 seconds after i start the engine? (pls see my 1:30 YouTube video: 2001 Accord Idle surge 50 seconds after start - YouTube ).
I drove the car around the block. When coasting, the car jerks - same frequency as during idling but subdued by the inertia of the car.
Under the hood looks clean (did not see any chewed wires etc).
Coolant was actually overflowing when I took off the radiator cap.
Will look for some kind of fuel treatment.
Thanks again!
Still trying to avoid a trip to a mechanic.
Is it significant that the surging starts not right away but like 50 seconds after i start the engine? (pls see my 1:30 YouTube video: 2001 Accord Idle surge 50 seconds after start - YouTube ).
I drove the car around the block. When coasting, the car jerks - same frequency as during idling but subdued by the inertia of the car.
Under the hood looks clean (did not see any chewed wires etc).
Coolant was actually overflowing when I took off the radiator cap.
Will look for some kind of fuel treatment.
Thanks again!
#7
01-09-2012, 06:32 PM
At ~1:26 into this before the engine is shut off, what is the yellow light in the upper right,,,,,,get the codes scanned and post the codes, should be a "P" and four numbers....P0420 or P0511......
EDIT: I tried to capture it and mark it with "red" to the right
EDIT: I tried to capture it and mark it with "red" to the right
Last edited by poorman212; 01-09-2012 at 06:38 PM.
#8
01-09-2012, 11:29 PM
That light poorman pointed out is the SRS light (airbag) light. That might not pull any codes. Still get the codes scanned.
Your idle looks like either air in the cooling system, or possibly a vacuum leak.
Some funnels for coolant that you can get from the autoparts stores will seal in the neck of the radiator. Run the engine with the cap off and the funnel in the neck of the radiator. See if you get a lot of air bubbles coming out. Search for v=zUpXgAJ1gjU on YouTube for the video I reference about coolant bleeding.
Search for v=9CPqbaSgcok on YouTube about finding a vacuum leak. Inpsect all the vacuum hoses for tears as well.
Your idle looks like either air in the cooling system, or possibly a vacuum leak.
Some funnels for coolant that you can get from the autoparts stores will seal in the neck of the radiator. Run the engine with the cap off and the funnel in the neck of the radiator. See if you get a lot of air bubbles coming out. Search for v=zUpXgAJ1gjU on YouTube for the video I reference about coolant bleeding.
Search for v=9CPqbaSgcok on YouTube about finding a vacuum leak. Inpsect all the vacuum hoses for tears as well.
#9
01-22-2012, 02:50 PM
Error code: P0505 Idle Air Control System. Two kinds of idle surges
OK I finally got an OBD Reader:
P0505 Idle Air Control System is the only error I got after over 15 minutes of idling.
Note that I now identified two kinds of idling problems:
1) Like I wrote (and posted two videos) above, the "surging idle" problems that start soon after a cold start are between 1000 and 2000 RPM every 2 seconds. The check engine light does not come on, even after 10 minutes.
2) After I turned the (warmed-up) engine off and on again, the surging that soon appears is very rapid, twice every second (noticeably shakes the car), and between 1200 and 1500 RPM. This time the check engine light comes one right away.
Here's a video of the 2nd kind of problem (jerking)
2001 Accord idle engine jerking, check engine light, Error P0505 Idle Air Control - YouTube
The error code I got both of the times is P0505, Idle Air Control System. Except for the 1st it appears after about 5 minutes (with no check engine light). The 2nd time, the P0505 appears instantly, just like the check engine light.
Is this "Idle Air Control" problem something a lay man with a wrench can fix, or should I have the car towed to a mechanic?
Please note the problem appeared suddenly after the engine was not started for several months.
Thanks!
P0505 Idle Air Control System is the only error I got after over 15 minutes of idling.
Note that I now identified two kinds of idling problems:
1) Like I wrote (and posted two videos) above, the "surging idle" problems that start soon after a cold start are between 1000 and 2000 RPM every 2 seconds. The check engine light does not come on, even after 10 minutes.
2) After I turned the (warmed-up) engine off and on again, the surging that soon appears is very rapid, twice every second (noticeably shakes the car), and between 1200 and 1500 RPM. This time the check engine light comes one right away.
Here's a video of the 2nd kind of problem (jerking)
2001 Accord idle engine jerking, check engine light, Error P0505 Idle Air Control - YouTube
The error code I got both of the times is P0505, Idle Air Control System. Except for the 1st it appears after about 5 minutes (with no check engine light). The 2nd time, the P0505 appears instantly, just like the check engine light.
Is this "Idle Air Control" problem something a lay man with a wrench can fix, or should I have the car towed to a mechanic?
Please note the problem appeared suddenly after the engine was not started for several months.
Thanks!
#10
01-22-2012, 03:36 PM
Call me crazy, but I think it might just be old gas. Todays gas breaks down fast. 6 months is a long time to let gas sit without treating it with Stabil, or something similar in my opinion.
Admittedly, the fuel systems on cars are bit too complicated for me to really grasp, but I know if I leave gas in one of my carbureted motorcycles for 6 months without treating it, the bike will probably idle "lean" the next time I start it, or not idle at all. This is because the gas breaks down and leaves varnish in my fuel passages. The idle passage is the smallest, and clogs the easiest.
The car is way more complicated, as the computer controls mixture etc. However, that surging may be the computer trying to compensate for partially clogged injectors?? It runs good for a little while at startup...maybe that's because at start up the choke is on and the mixture is richer (more fuel less air) than normal. As the car warms, the choke turns off, the mixture is too lean (too much air not enough fuel) and the car surges as a result.
Does it smooth out some when you give it gas?
If it was mine, I would probably clean the throttle body, and mix a healthy dose of seafoam in the gas, and run it for a while to see if that clears it up before bringing it to the dealer/mechanic.
Admittedly, the fuel systems on cars are bit too complicated for me to really grasp, but I know if I leave gas in one of my carbureted motorcycles for 6 months without treating it, the bike will probably idle "lean" the next time I start it, or not idle at all. This is because the gas breaks down and leaves varnish in my fuel passages. The idle passage is the smallest, and clogs the easiest.
The car is way more complicated, as the computer controls mixture etc. However, that surging may be the computer trying to compensate for partially clogged injectors?? It runs good for a little while at startup...maybe that's because at start up the choke is on and the mixture is richer (more fuel less air) than normal. As the car warms, the choke turns off, the mixture is too lean (too much air not enough fuel) and the car surges as a result.
Does it smooth out some when you give it gas?
If it was mine, I would probably clean the throttle body, and mix a healthy dose of seafoam in the gas, and run it for a while to see if that clears it up before bringing it to the dealer/mechanic.
