My son's car had a lit SRS light, so I checked it out and found out it was a faulty driver's seat belt buckle switch, but it reset fine, so the problem must be occasional. After clearing the light, the car started fine. I turned the car off and left the car with the door open for about 1/2 hour (with the dome light on). When I returned, the car wouldn't start (just a click when I turned the key). I tried a jump start from my truck and charged the battery, yet nothing changes. All the electrical seems to work fine. The lights are bright, yet nothing but a click when I turn the key. Could it be a bad solenoid? What else might be causing this?

This is a 4-cylinder 4-door model with automatic transmission.

 

Faulty starter solenoid is one possibility. Others are weak battery, poor battery connections or damaged battery wire.

good luck

 

We'll get a new battery today. I guess the volts can be up with the charge but not the CCAs, allowing the lights to be strong, but still nothing but a click from a start attempt. Would it be worth it to check the ignition switch before the store opens for the battery? Is there a way to check the solenoid? The wires and connections are all tight and undamaged.

 

You can check battery voltage when starter solenoid is thrown. If small voltage drop (< 1V), the solenoid is probably the problem.

If battery voltage drops below 10V, the battery may be too weak to turn engine.

good luck

 

If you have an Advance or Auto Zone in your area, you can have your battery checked and charged for Free.


WheelBrokerAng

 

I replaced the battery, and still no go. I pulled the starter and connected it to 12 vt, and it turned fine, but when I connected it to the car's solenoid, it didn't do a thing, other than a click from below. I'm sensing the problem may be the solenoid. What might be your expert opinion on this?

 

I checked all the fuses with an ohm meter, and all tested out fine. I followed the instructions in the FSM on Starter Circuit Troubleshooting and find myself confused. On the solenoid, there is continuity between the S and M terminals and between the S and ground. According to the FSM, that means the solenoid is fine. I removed the starter motor from the car and jumpered the case to the car's main ground and the connecting wire to M (where it was originally connected with a nut). I then jumpered S (after removing the black/white wire from it) to the positive post of the battery. I heard a click from the solenoid, just like I did with normal starting at the ignition switch, but the starter motor didn't turn. When I connect the starter motor to the battery, it spins normally. This sounds like a solenoid problem to me, but what are your thoughts?

OK, here is more information: Voltage coming from the ignition switch to the solenoid is 12 vt, but coming out of the solenoid, it is only 10 vt. Let me know if that is an issue.

 

The problem is not the solenoid drive circuit, but the "relay contacts" which the solenoid causes to close. The starter solenoid moves a large copper sleeve to make contact w/ separate copper contacts on either side. This completes primary starter path from battery. When the copper contacts are worn due to arcing/use, the contact of the sleeve to the copper contacts is insufficient to carry starter current (> 100A sometimes).

Try rapping the starter solenoid firmly w/ a hammer or heavy wrench and see if this improves contact enough to cause starter to turn engine over. This would confirm worn copper contacts, however sometimes the contacts are worn so badly this will not work either.

Contacts are not replaceable on most starters and a new or rebuilt starter is typical fix.

good luck

 

I pulled the starter/solenoid assembly and will get a replacement. It would have been a lot easier if the FSM said 14mm bolts rather than 10X1.25mm. I guess that means the width of the bolt is 10mm with 1.25mm threads, though it is the 14mm head that is exposed, not the 10X1.25mm. I spent a lot of time taking out the screws rather than the bolts. After struggling and removing 2 screws, I realized there were 3 screws, so I gave up and took out the bolts. Thank you for your feedback. I hope this fixes the problem. I'll install it on Sunday and report back.

 

Getting the new starter assembly in was a challenge. Maybe it would be easier with smaller hands, as there is little room. For some reason, I had a heck of a time connecting the wire from the ignition switch, and you would think that would be the easiest part, but it just wouldn't connect. I finally got it together, and the car works fine (though the SRS light came back on, and my son will still have to go to the dealer to get his seat belt switch replaced, though it is under lifetime warranty). Thanks for your suggestions.