Pretty sure Immobilizer is the problem but I have been fighting this issue on and off since buying the car new. It has always started eventually until this week. Turn to On (II) green key light comes on for two seconds then shuts off but if I don't hear a relay "click" when the key light goes off the car will not start. If relay clicks when key light goes out then car will start, but will die after 2 seconds or so.

So far my best option is to tow to dealership, I was quoted $150 to remove Immobilizer. Will this fix the problem since it seems like the key light is acting as it should?

I have all the original keys and had to replace the ECM/PCM under radio a couple years ago (not shifting out of 2nd gear) but had the dealership reprogram the new one to the keys.

 

I called the dealership back and asked for my Immobilizer Brake Code. The response I got was "what?". So I explained what my car was doing and told him I got a quote and appointment from his coworker to have my car's immobilizer removed. He asked me who gave me the quote and I told him. He then apologized and said that guy is new and doesn't know what he is doing. Now I am confused.

I was under the impression that I could give the dealership my VIN and they would supply me with the immo brake code. How else does one receive this code?

I could then input this using the sequence in my FSM and the car should start if in fact the immobilizer is causing the no start issue.

 

Sounds like the re-programmed keys have failed. I would ask for some credit from Honda as this should not happen.

good luck

 

I should have played that card, but I was having this issue well before replacing the ECM and getting the original keys reprogrammed. It was just to few and far between to warrant fixing.

Called a second dealership and they said to use the key to lock and then unlock the doors. Then proceed to start the car. I will try that this evening and post results.

 

So tried the lock unlock method in the door car then started first try. Drove around for about 20 mins then shut the car off. Havent been able to get it started since. Thought the door lock trick was the key but no it was a fluke.


If the car will start and run for more than 2 seconds it will be fine. Never stalls and runs perfect. Any thoughts?

 

Main Fuel Relay?

I found this during my search today.

2001 Honda Accord will not start - sometimes - Car Talk

 

When you turn keyswitch to On, do you hear fuel pump (faint buzz from fuel tank in rear) come on & run for 2-3 sec, then go off?

If yes, the Main Fuel Relay (MFR) is OK. If no fuel pump sound, it could be source of the problem.

You may want to perform a simple no-start test; inject 10 secs of throttle body cleaner into intake air duct and attempt to start.

If it starts, then fuel delivery is not present and MFR may be fault. If it does not start, then spark is missing and time to look for something interrupting spark delivery.

good luck

 

In the last few days I haven't been able to replicate the problem. The car has started and ran fine every time I have cranked it.

Thanks Texas and to answer your questions. Even when the car will not start I remember hearing the fuel pump running to prime. Always has spark, I have checked numerous times during no start.

I have ordered a MFR <$50 on ebay so well worth trying. The test procedure for the MFR in my FSM is like 20 steps and requires a second person to hold the dumb end of the multimeter. I know I am being lazy but I haven't been able to replicate the issue when I have time to work on it.

Some things I have noticed with my no start issue.
1. Running the car everyday decreases/eliminates the no start problem
2. If the car sits for a week or so most likely it will not start or will start but only run for 2 seconds and stall.
3. If car starts and runs for more than 2 seconds it will drive fine with no issues.
4. Removing the key from the ignition when parked seems to help (I live in the country and always leave the key in the ignition).

 

Either spark or fuel is missing when no-start condition arises. Your challenge is to figure out which so you can make some progress.

I had an "intermittent" fuel pump that would occasionally no-start and/or die while driving. I finally pinned down fault by rigging a tell-tale light to the fuel pump power supply. When no-start occurred, I had power to the fuel pump and no fuel pump buzz. I found that "hammering' the fuel pump w/ on/off/on... keyswitch cyles would kick off the pump.

good luck

 

Great write-up here my problem is explained precisely when talking about missing the third click.

When the Main Relay goes bad