I waited till the CEL came on again, with the idea that with the new sensor installed I would get a visual indication of the CEL going unlit. When the CEL came on yesterday, the heater measured 44 ohms or so. I decided to undertake the sensor replacement today. FWIW today the heater measured 18 ohms. I used the special offset socket to attempt removal of the sensor. The sensor didn't budge. I applied PB Blaster with no effect. Then I watched some youtube videos. One of them gave a hint that one should remove the heat shield for better access. The heat shield screws didn't budge either with PB Blaster applied. Also I noticed that the locations of the shield with screws had rusted. I'm afraid that if I apply more force, the heat shield screw corners will just disintegrate. I'm attaching pics of the sensor with the shield (to give an idea of the big picture), as well as the screws at positions right front, right rear, left front and left rear. What should be my next step?


Big picture


Heat shield screw right front


Heat shield screw right rear


Heat shield screw left front


Heat shield screw left rear

 

It looks like the heat shield will break off pretty soon. I'd stop by a home depot and pick up 2-s large hose clamps in the appliance section for dryers. Break the bolts off the heat shield and replace the sensor. Use the hose clamps to secure the heat shield. I did this on my accord and it lasted for years. I recently replaced the heat shield and bolts for cosmetic purposes.

Here is a video on doing this.

 

Eric, thanks for your suggestion on securing the heat shield and the accompanying video, which was quite informative. I'll go to HD tomorrow. In the meantime I looked up the hose clamps on the HD website. They seem to have 2 different types. One type they call turn-key dryer vent clamp of size 2.5 - 4.5 inches.It doesn't require any tools for installation because there's a built-in plastic turn-key which can be operated by hand to tighten and loosen the clamp. I'd rather not use a clamp with a plastic part as it can get very hot on the car underside. Another type is the traditional stainless-steel hose clamp (in the plumbing dept) and it comes in various sizes. I measured the girth (circumference) of the heat shield to be about 18 inches. It looks like the 5 - 7 inch clamp will work, since 7 inch diameter corresponds to a girth of about 22 inches. See web links below.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...649B/203493342

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...9595/202309383

 

I had to do one like that before where it had seized. I cut the wire and put a torch to the bolt. Afterwards it came off easy. Never had to remove the shield. I also had it jacked up so I can get a breaker bar in there

 

Some older Saab turbos have O2 sensors difficult to loosen. The trick was to drive them hard & get it good and hot. Immediately try to loosen while the converter is still very hot. YMMV...

But don't put the new one in until it all cools down, and use anti-seize compound.

 

+1

That's trick has worked for me from time to time

 

Seanjordan and JimBlake, thanks for your comments.I did get the clamps from HD. They were cheap at 2.22 apiece and they worked well. Unfortunately, the heat shield rusted areas where the bolts are located did not break off. It would seem that I should get metal cutting snips from HD to proceed further or should I use a different method?

Also, I have an old Larin floor jack which doesn't work any more. Any suggestions on a reliable hydraulic floor jack to buy?

 

I bought this jack and cross beam from Harbor Freight in 2012 and it's still going. Usually you can catch it on sale @$69. Then I bought the crossbeam just in case I needed it.

Jack

Crossbeam

 

Seanjordan, thanks for this info. I see that Harbor Freight has a Pittsburgh Automotive "Rapid Pump" 1.5 ton aluminum floor jack for $80 and a $20 coupon applies. I realize that the Accord weighs about 4000 lbs, which is about 2 tons but I'm not lifting the entire car.

 

I use the 1.5 ton jack on my TSX with no issues.