2004 accord 2.4 auto
#1
2004 accord 2.4 auto
Hello and thanks for any help .Trying to diagnose a no start condition . most likely immobilizer ..But would like to be sure . Key light acts normal till I crank on it .Starts in on position solid green for 2 or three seconds and goes off ,but when I crank it over with the new starter it blinks . Unfortunately it has a after market key . Checked all fuses ,start relay changed . changed the ignition switch early on, as it turned over very slowly but did start before I changed it .and I put pressure one way on key it would start ..Could not check key fob battery for its only a key . It did come apart but was a encapsulated board . says italy TK100 on it . .Whats is frustrating is it did start before I started working on ! Could the new ignition switch be bad from the get go ? Does it feed power also to other start systems ?
Any help appreciated Rt
Any help appreciated Rt
#2
hello again... Any help ."" What I described on post a normal key operation"" ? Also Have a low cost code reader and no codes . Any thing else to check ?
IF IT is the immobilizer,,, I looked up what immobilizers do . is it true it shuts down ecu and or injectors ? and is there a way to check that ? I do hear fuel pump kicking in .
It started and ran intermittent before I changed the starter and ignition switch n relay . I had it tested and was going bad .
Also if it is in lock out it can be expensive, any tips to save money ? Would have to tow a long ways and if dealer ,,big bucks !
IF IT is the immobilizer,,, I looked up what immobilizers do . is it true it shuts down ecu and or injectors ? and is there a way to check that ? I do hear fuel pump kicking in .
It started and ran intermittent before I changed the starter and ignition switch n relay . I had it tested and was going bad .
Also if it is in lock out it can be expensive, any tips to save money ? Would have to tow a long ways and if dealer ,,big bucks !
Last edited by rct; 12-09-2022 at 01:06 PM. Reason: info
#3
When you have a good key, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. The green light will turn on for 2 seconds then shut off. When you turn the key off, the green light will blink 5 times to show the immobilizer reset.
The wrong key when you turn the key to the II position will have the green light on for 2 seconds, then continuously flash about 1 per second. The light turns off when you turn off the key.
Which matches your situation?
The wrong key when you turn the key to the II position will have the green light on for 2 seconds, then continuously flash about 1 per second. The light turns off when you turn off the key.
Which matches your situation?
#5
Thanks for the info .GOOD NEWS i I have a good key or It reset at some point . I take it that the same behavior if its in theft mode ?
So my next question , because it seems to have multiple problems at the same time . And no codes are showing up on mt cheep scanner .
Q 1 could the new starter switch not passing power to ignition .. Or does it just feed power to starter thats now working fine after replacement ?
Its a cheeper dura laster . Also tried swapping good common relays to all there spots . checked all fuses .
Q 2 how to diagnose at this point ? Maybe auto zoney will do a loaner on a better scan tool ? I have the performace tool w2977.. When nothing worked before I did erase codes although there were none . Probably should not have done that .Just hope full thinking .
So my next question , because it seems to have multiple problems at the same time . And no codes are showing up on mt cheep scanner .
Q 1 could the new starter switch not passing power to ignition .. Or does it just feed power to starter thats now working fine after replacement ?
Its a cheeper dura laster . Also tried swapping good common relays to all there spots . checked all fuses .
Q 2 how to diagnose at this point ? Maybe auto zoney will do a loaner on a better scan tool ? I have the performace tool w2977.. When nothing worked before I did erase codes although there were none . Probably should not have done that .Just hope full thinking .
#8
The starter circuit is one-way, where the ignition switch sends power to the starter.
Crank/No-Starts can be caused by lack of spark, fuel, air, or compression. Scan for codes to possibly get a direction for testing.
Do you have an old spark plug for spark testing or a spark tester? Starting fluid to test for missing fuel?
Did you try adding some gasoline (1/2 gallon) to the gas tank?
Crank/No-Starts can be caused by lack of spark, fuel, air, or compression. Scan for codes to possibly get a direction for testing.
Do you have an old spark plug for spark testing or a spark tester? Starting fluid to test for missing fuel?
Did you try adding some gasoline (1/2 gallon) to the gas tank?
#9
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Thank you PAhonda for your info! very helpful . Well I finally I decided to learn about the relays and built a crude relay tester with a small load built in "1157" . I bought a couple of the common relays and changed the start one right away as it was whining .Then unplugged each of the black ones I had a spare for and tried to no avail . After testing the brown ones and the blue one that's the pgm , fuel pump relay according to what I found on line . I found out the coil is shorted and blew a 10 amp fuse on the tester . Little bugger is the 55 dollar one, that's ok if it gets it to running again !.
Q .If that relay shorted , could it have blown a fuse some where ? And which one would it be ? Any one have a diagram of that ? I thought I checked them all ....
Keep u posted .Thanks rt
Q .If that relay shorted , could it have blown a fuse some where ? And which one would it be ? Any one have a diagram of that ? I thought I checked them all ....
Keep u posted .Thanks rt