Hey guys, I'm having some issues with my 2005 Honda Accord LX. Been looking all over the web and YouTube for answers but I keep on getting multiple answers. I'm starting to guess that it might be multiple problems. I attached some photos and videos to hopefully make it easier to diagnose.


So the problems that I am having are as follows:
1. From dead stop when I hit the gas I get a loud "Clunk" type noise. This only happens from a dead stop and I have to put a bit on the gas to hear it. Won't hear it if I do a slow smooth increase.
2. Once I start driving I get a cyclical noise that gets faster as you can hear in the video. It almost feels like a grinding noise at times. The noise get quieter as I'm accelerating or swinging from left to right.
3. I get vibration at about 55mph to 85mph where it feels like the car is going to break in two when I'm braking in that range.
4. When I turn to the right completely I once in a while get a click noise with almost some sort of decompression noise. Not sure how else to word that but my guess is that it is the axle boot about to go bad or already is. I've had this one happen before but it was alot of clicks instead of just one or maybe two at times.

So after all the research, I've come across a few reasons. I thought I would list them here and then see what you guys think. I'm trying not to have to replace stuff that doesn't need it since Ill be selling this car soon and right now with all the research I'm scratching my head to where to start first.

Spin drive shaft? Axle nut? Engine mount? Ball Joint? Un-Balanced Wheels (will be doing this first)? Wheel Bearing? Un-even Rotors? Rear Differential?Anything else?

Im guessing its going to be multiple thing. Where should I start first other than making sure my wheels are balanced?

 

Well, it cannot be your rear differential. Cross that one off the list.

The rest of the list sounds good for you to check out. You don't want to replace things until you check them out & find they are actually bad.

The clunking sounds like an engine mount. Which one? You have to check them out.

From the photos your axle boots are cracking so replace them before they break open. Usually the prices work out so it makes sense to replace the axle. What I see in the pictures won't cause any problems until the boots break open - which might be next week or next year.

Cracking rubber in your LCA bushings, but from the photos it doesn't look torn apart to the point they're capable of creating the clunking.

Maybe you can create the clunking sound by grabbing the valve cover & shaking the engine. Then you'll have your head in the engine compartment & try to pinpoint the location of the clunk.

 

Ok so I'm going to start with the easy stuff. Tire balance, spin rotors, change bushings, look into engine mounts for clunk sound.

What is the part name for what's connecting to the rotor area on the right side? In the first picture it's good. In the 4th picture it's cracked and the oil is spilled out. I've been trying to find out so I can look it up but can't find anything for the life of me.

Anyone have any ideas or thoughts about the vibration? It's from 55 all the way to over 100. I just noticed today when driving on the highway after a while the shaking completely went away. So violent shaking from 55-100 with even more shaking when breaking in that range and then all of a sudden it just goes away.

 

The part you are asking about is called either the power steering rack boot, or the inner tie-rod boot.

You will need to inspect all the suspension and motor mounts to figure it out. The vibration can be from any of these parts.

 

I would do things in this order:

Wheels and tires (ensure it is balanced)
Test
Hub assemblies (replace)
Brakes and rotors. (Replace)

At this point your shaking should be gone or a lot better.

if you still have a little shaking then replace your half shafts. At this point all shaking should be gone. I didn't see anything in you pics that would suggest other parts "needing" to be replaced. But there are parts that should be replaced if you were going to keep it. If you are doing your own work then you should not have to spend more than $200 on the parts above.

The clunking is a mount but have to find out which one if is (engine of trans).

 

PAHonda is correct it is the tie rod. You have the inner and outer tie rod which makes up the tie rod.

 

That rubber boot on the steering rack isn't supposed to be filled with oil. If there's a lot of oil in there, it's probably power-steering fluid leaking out from the hydraulic cylinder in the rack.

 

Thank you for the ordered list. Doing the wheels and tires today. This might be a stupid question but is that a 2 step process or does a balance do wheels and tires together. Just want to make sure that they are not separate balances lol. I get paranoid about missing steps due to wording.

Is anyone able to see the videos I put up showing the noise that I'm getting? I'm curious if that's why no one has mentioned anything about the noise. I'm wondering if the noise could be related to the hub assemblies, specifically the right one for my case.

For the oil, I do believe I had a power steering overfill a couple of years back. I'm guessing that's what that is.

 

Yes. When you get the tires balanced it will not balance if the wheel is bent or out of round.

It is hard to tell what is going on in the video. With rolling vibration you have to be here to troubleshoot. The way it is being explained I am thinking you are having 2 issues. Grinding/winding noise getting louder they faster you go hub assemblies (bearings being worn out). The vibration could be balance (more than likely) or half shafts. I would do brakes and rotors since they have to come off anyway and you're getting vibration while applying. You can turn them or buy new ones either or but replace the pads. You can buy a cheap set of front rotors and brakes for the price of you going to the local auto store to buy brakes the add the cost of turning the rotors.

 

So the noise quiets down when you turn to the right?