Hi all,

I'm having a terrible week and hoping someone can help me out a bit. Started with my house flooding, and I rushed to clean it up as soon as I came home to that from work. After I get that situation under control, I was gonna go to the store to buy a dehumidifier, grabbed my key, and stuck it in my 2006 Honda Accord, and it felt like it went in a little funny. I think the key was completely wet and possibly dirty from me ripping all the carpet out of my house and I just wasn't thinking about it. Car worked fine, but next day, the key was noticably harder to insert into the ignition. It got near impossible to turn by the following day.

I thought I would fix it by simply bypassing the key and installing a keyless push button start system. Wired most of it, left off 3 wires, trunk, horn, and lights, and tested it. Worked great. Car started, shifted into gears, etc. Went to hook up the trunk wire, forgot to put my key in/near the immobilizer thing when I tried to start it, it failed to start. Put my key near it, it still failed to start this time. Tried a few times, no luck, undid the trunk wire so I was back to how it was just working, and no luck.

I own a Launch OBD diagnostics tool which is supposed to be able to reprogram the immobilizer system, but now the car won't communicate with that anymore... I tried my simpler OBDLink and it won't communicate with that either. it still has power coming from the OBD port, just can't communicate over the bus. As soon as you turn the ignition on, the D light goes solid, then starts flashing. The key immobilizer light begins flashing as soon as you start the car and does not stop. I noticed the battery voltage got a bit low, as when I was testing it, I started the car a bunch of times, then shutting it off without driving it... tried recharging the battery with no help.

Anyone have any advise on how to diagnose this? I really don't want to bring it to the dealer with the push start system installed (partially), and typically like to DIY as I've had lots of bad experiences with my dealer on much simpler items.

 

the Launch tool has an option to use SCS to tell the car to give you a flashing diagnostic code apparently, so I did that, and got a flashing D 1-6 2-3 2-9

The manual seems to say that is:
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (open/short)
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (open/short)
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (open/short)

 

I would check for broken wires going to the transmission first.

 

I don't see anything, is there specific ones to check on the other side where I can check continuity on both?

I'm also tempted to think that code is false, since I also have the immobilizer light blinking and a non-working OBD port (thats still getting voltage). What would be the explanation for that part of it?

 

Is this a 4 or 6 cylinder?

 

4 cylinder 2.4L

 

I'd probably go through and check that all of your fuses are getting power on both sides with the key in the II position using a test light.

See video below on how to do this quickly.

 

Here are some things to quickly check:

1. Under-hood Fuse No. 8 (15A). Make sure power is at the fuse even if the fuse is not blown.
2. Under-dash Fuse No. 19 (15A). This should have power when ignition switch is in ON or START position.
3. Ground G101. Check connection, wiring, etc.

 

I've double checked those fuses and tested every other fuse in the under hood and drivers fusebox as well. None of them have blown. I didn't use a fuse light like that video, but I used my voltmeter to measure no resistance on every one

 

My gut is telling me the ECU/PCM went out and is malfunctioning, thats why all at once, the immobilizer, transmission, and OBD port all failed at the exact same time. Is that a likely scenario?

I pulled the side cover off to see the label on it... however unlike all the online ones mine doesn't seem to have a model number on it. Its got a barcode, and a serial number A590190793. The last 3 digits of the ECM computer model number seem to vary a lot? Does that matter if I try to order a used replacement to see if that makes a difference? I have the i4 4.2L EXL with Navigation. I know I need one that is labeled for the engine, but does the navi have anything to do with it?