2007 Accord Starter issues
#11
02-16-2019, 02:54 PM
When you take the starter out test with the battery. That should shed light on the issue. If you have the old one test it also
#12
02-16-2019, 05:12 PM
Your meter is on the correct setting.
I think you have the the test locations switched.
1. For the small starter wire, black lead on battery negative and red lead on small wire to starter. You should get 12v when you turn the key to start the car.
2. For the voltage drop along the power wire, red lead on battery positive and black lead on big wire going to the starter. You should get zero volts or close to zero volts.
I think you have the the test locations switched.
1. For the small starter wire, black lead on battery negative and red lead on small wire to starter. You should get 12v when you turn the key to start the car.
2. For the voltage drop along the power wire, red lead on battery positive and black lead on big wire going to the starter. You should get zero volts or close to zero volts.
#13
02-18-2019, 12:30 PM
Your meter is on the correct setting.
I think you have the the test locations switched.
1. For the small starter wire, black lead on battery negative and red lead on small wire to starter. You should get 12v when you turn the key to start the car.
2. For the voltage drop along the power wire, red lead on battery positive and black lead on big wire going to the starter. You should get zero volts or close to zero volts.
I think you have the the test locations switched.
1. For the small starter wire, black lead on battery negative and red lead on small wire to starter. You should get 12v when you turn the key to start the car.
2. For the voltage drop along the power wire, red lead on battery positive and black lead on big wire going to the starter. You should get zero volts or close to zero volts.
PaHonda, here is a photo of tester after you corrected my leads. This photo is testing the small wire on starter. Not sure which scale to read.
The power volts read zero zero with and without key turning over.
Thoughts?
#14
02-18-2019, 01:05 PM
If you had the negative tester lead on the negative battery post and the positive lead on the starter solenoid wire when testing and got 0v look at your starter relay.
Maybe im looking at this the wrong way. When you say you are getting clicking. Is the clicking on the inside of the car or under the hood? If it is coming from the inside of the car we are diagnosing the wrong area. Look at the fuse box by the drivers foot. The whole kick plate has to come out to view the relays. Check to see if the PGM FI Main relay is the one clicking (top middle relay (brown)). If not it may be the starter cut relay (bottom row relay closer to the engine)
Maybe im looking at this the wrong way. When you say you are getting clicking. Is the clicking on the inside of the car or under the hood? If it is coming from the inside of the car we are diagnosing the wrong area. Look at the fuse box by the drivers foot. The whole kick plate has to come out to view the relays. Check to see if the PGM FI Main relay is the one clicking (top middle relay (brown)). If not it may be the starter cut relay (bottom row relay closer to the engine)
#15
02-18-2019, 01:20 PM
If you had the negative tester lead on the negative battery post and the positive lead on the starter solenoid wire when testing and got 0v look at your starter relay.
Maybe im looking at this the wrong way. When you say you are getting clicking. Is the clicking on the inside of the car or under the hood? If it is coming from the inside of the car we are diagnosing the wrong area. Look at the fuse box by the drivers foot. The whole kick plate has to come out to view the relays. Check to see if the PGM FI Main relay is the one clicking (top middle relay (brown)). If not it may be the starter cut relay (bottom row relay closer to the engine)
Maybe im looking at this the wrong way. When you say you are getting clicking. Is the clicking on the inside of the car or under the hood? If it is coming from the inside of the car we are diagnosing the wrong area. Look at the fuse box by the drivers foot. The whole kick plate has to come out to view the relays. Check to see if the PGM FI Main relay is the one clicking (top middle relay (brown)). If not it may be the starter cut relay (bottom row relay closer to the engine)
The clicking is the actual starter unit. While my son turns the key I can hear and feel the starter solenoid click. It is not coming from inside the car. Auto parts store said they will try one more replacement. They said the unit could be bad even though it bench tested fine (lack of resistance).
#16
02-18-2019, 01:23 PM
I messed up. You have the meter set to ac voltage. Switch to DC voltage (50 V with the solid line over the dashed line) at about 10 o'clock.
The scale you will read is the black arching lines with the number scale from 0-50 (since you set the 50 scale).
Verify you get 12V across the battery posts to make sure you have the meter setup correctly.
The scale you will read is the black arching lines with the number scale from 0-50 (since you set the 50 scale).
Verify you get 12V across the battery posts to make sure you have the meter setup correctly.
#17
02-18-2019, 01:27 PM
I messed up. You have the meter set to ac voltage. Switch to DC voltage (50 V with the solid line over the dashed line) at about 10 o'clock.
The scale you will read is the black arching lines with the number scale from 0-50 (since you set the 50 scale).
Verify you get 12V across the battery posts to make sure you have the meter setup correctly.
The scale you will read is the black arching lines with the number scale from 0-50 (since you set the 50 scale).
Verify you get 12V across the battery posts to make sure you have the meter setup correctly.
#18
02-18-2019, 01:36 PM
sean, the tester read volts (see previous post photo) when the key was as turned (Black to black, red+ to small starter plug). I did what PAHonda posted a few back.
The clicking is the actual starter unit. While my son turns the key I can hear and feel the starter solenoid click. It is not coming from inside the car. Auto parts store said they will try one more replacement. They said the unit could be bad even though it bench tested fine (lack of resistance).
#19
02-18-2019, 01:42 PM
Me personally I just pull one from under the hood (that matches it) that does not matter for engine operation and put it in the spot I'm checking to see. I'm sure there is other ways people might use
#20
02-18-2019, 01:44 PM
When you pulled the second one that should be your issue. Replace it with one from under the hood to make sure.