2009 Honda Accord LX 2.4l - P0974
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A fuse can be put in any direction.
I'd say fuses rarely get old during use. They are a thin piece of metal designed to handle a certain current and melt/blow when that current is exceeded. They blow to protect the wiring downstream from getting too hot and melting. If the replacement fuse is also blown, you definitely have a short in the wire harness to ground. You can try a new fuse, and I suspect the new fuse will blow immediately.
All the non-working bulbs you mentioned look to be on the red wire based on your description and the wiring diagram. You can verify by looking at each electrical connector of a non-working bulb. I would say the bulbs are likely good and don't need replaced.
I suspect the wiring harness got damaged in the area of the driver's fender where the vehicle got crushed, where the red wire (and maybe some others) is now touching some bare metal or a ground wire inside the harness. I suspect the front left lights coming off pin F10 is the short and causing the fuse to blow. You can use a test light to verify. Unplug the two bulbs on the driver's side that have the red wire. You'd have to unplug the F-connector from the driver's side fuse box. Find pin 10 on the F connector and verify it is a red wire. You would connect the test light to a 12V source and use the tip of the test light on F10. You have a short if the bulb lights up. You need the bulb of the test light in the circuit to create resistance and not cause wires to overheat. Don't jump with just a piece of wire.
I'd say fuses rarely get old during use. They are a thin piece of metal designed to handle a certain current and melt/blow when that current is exceeded. They blow to protect the wiring downstream from getting too hot and melting. If the replacement fuse is also blown, you definitely have a short in the wire harness to ground. You can try a new fuse, and I suspect the new fuse will blow immediately.
All the non-working bulbs you mentioned look to be on the red wire based on your description and the wiring diagram. You can verify by looking at each electrical connector of a non-working bulb. I would say the bulbs are likely good and don't need replaced.
I suspect the wiring harness got damaged in the area of the driver's fender where the vehicle got crushed, where the red wire (and maybe some others) is now touching some bare metal or a ground wire inside the harness. I suspect the front left lights coming off pin F10 is the short and causing the fuse to blow. You can use a test light to verify. Unplug the two bulbs on the driver's side that have the red wire. You'd have to unplug the F-connector from the driver's side fuse box. Find pin 10 on the F connector and verify it is a red wire. You would connect the test light to a 12V source and use the tip of the test light on F10. You have a short if the bulb lights up. You need the bulb of the test light in the circuit to create resistance and not cause wires to overheat. Don't jump with just a piece of wire.
I had to jump the car since I didn't run it for 1-2 days and then I just drove it a little bit and checked the #27 fuse and the new one was blown! Feels like some progress! So now as you mentioned I have to figure out "unplug the F-connector from the driver's side fuse box. Find pin 10 on the F connector and verify it is a red wire." Would the car battery or the portable jumper qualify as the 12V source?
Driver Side Fuse Box
Are these the F-connectors?
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From: Houston, TX
If you got that shop manual look at page 22-76. Looks like you circled the F and G connector, where the F connector is on top, but it is hard to tell from the picture. Verify with the shop manual diagram.
Page 22.-217 has a pinout diagram of that connector and hopefully #10 will be red wire.
You can use battery + as your power source, but you must have a bulb in the circuit to prevent damage. You can clip the test light to + battery terminal. I've use a jumper cable on just the + terminal as an extension for the battery for this type of test.
Page 22.-217 has a pinout diagram of that connector and hopefully #10 will be red wire.
You can use battery + as your power source, but you must have a bulb in the circuit to prevent damage. You can clip the test light to + battery terminal. I've use a jumper cable on just the + terminal as an extension for the battery for this type of test.
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Newest Of Newbies
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If you got that shop manual look at page 22-76. Looks like you circled the F and G connector, where the F connector is on top, but it is hard to tell from the picture. Verify with the shop manual diagram.
Page 22.-217 has a pinout diagram of that connector and hopefully #10 will be red wire.
You can use battery + as your power source, but you must have a bulb in the circuit to prevent damage. You can clip the test light to + battery terminal. I've use a jumper cable on just the + terminal as an extension for the battery for this type of test.
Page 22.-217 has a pinout diagram of that connector and hopefully #10 will be red wire.
You can use battery + as your power source, but you must have a bulb in the circuit to prevent damage. You can clip the test light to + battery terminal. I've use a jumper cable on just the + terminal as an extension for the battery for this type of test.
F connector
#10 pin
Driver side fuse, F Connector #10
Contraption (light bulbs in handle)
Would this contraption work to test the #10 pin? I would have the pierce the wire, right? I may have to remove battery, air filter etc to see if I can spot the wires touching metal/pinched. Thanks again!
Last edited by yoyohonda; Nov 24, 2023 at 04:02 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,329
From: Houston, TX
You are good on the wire and location. You just have to unplug the electrical connectors to the bulbs on the front driver's headlight that are not working.
For the test light, you only need to use the 6/12V on the left. Not the 12/18/36V on the right. The red clip on the 6/12 needs to be clipped on battery +. Unplug connector F, and you will touch the tip of the test light to the metal on the other side of the F connector at pin 10. No piercing the wire is necessary. You must keep the car battery attached to do this test.
For the test light, you only need to use the 6/12V on the left. Not the 12/18/36V on the right. The red clip on the 6/12 needs to be clipped on battery +. Unplug connector F, and you will touch the tip of the test light to the metal on the other side of the F connector at pin 10. No piercing the wire is necessary. You must keep the car battery attached to do this test.
Thread Starter
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Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 12
You are good on the wire and location. You just have to unplug the electrical connectors to the bulbs on the front driver's headlight that are not working.
For the test light, you only need to use the 6/12V on the left. Not the 12/18/36V on the right. The red clip on the 6/12 needs to be clipped on battery +. Unplug connector F, and you will touch the tip of the test light to the metal on the other side of the F connector at pin 10. No piercing the wire is necessary. You must keep the car battery attached to do this test.
For the test light, you only need to use the 6/12V on the left. Not the 12/18/36V on the right. The red clip on the 6/12 needs to be clipped on battery +. Unplug connector F, and you will touch the tip of the test light to the metal on the other side of the F connector at pin 10. No piercing the wire is necessary. You must keep the car battery attached to do this test.
Last edited by yoyohonda; Nov 24, 2023 at 06:38 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Houston, TX
I see. You can also use a jumper cable on the + battery post to use as an extension.
For removing the connector, I see some grey plastic tab on the bottom. I'm assuming the white plastic shield would require removal to access a tab on the other side. I wouldn't use brute force to remove the connector.
For removing the connector, I see some grey plastic tab on the bottom. I'm assuming the white plastic shield would require removal to access a tab on the other side. I wouldn't use brute force to remove the connector.
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I see. You can also use a jumper cable on the + battery post to use as an extension.
For removing the connector, I see some grey plastic tab on the bottom. I'm assuming the white plastic shield would require removal to access a tab on the other side. I wouldn't use brute force to remove the connector.
For removing the connector, I see some grey plastic tab on the bottom. I'm assuming the white plastic shield would require removal to access a tab on the other side. I wouldn't use brute force to remove the connector.
Then went and took out the Left front parking light (amber). To get to the Left front side marker light (amber), I had to remove the air filter box. And then I think I found the issue without testing.
Red and black wire cut
Driver side front amber light connector
Cant believe I didn’t see this earlier when all this was already out.
How can I approach this now? Have to find where this wire was “cut” from? Didn’t see from where right away, took out the battery, still wasn't able to tell easily. And then shrink tube it or something? The cut wires are on the same harness of the Left front parking light (amber).
Do you still think the solenoid issue P0974 would be related to this at all? The harness on it looks ok but I missed cut wires before so…
I took a video of the solenoid/harness here
Last edited by yoyohonda; Nov 25, 2023 at 04:08 PM. Reason: trying to add video
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,329
From: Houston, TX
I don't know if the solenoid is related. If the solenoid wire goes through the area that was wrecked, then it is possible that wire was damaged.
For the lights, you'll have to remove the electrical tape and some of the plastic wire harness conduit to find the other end of the wires. You may find some other wires damaged in there. You won't know until you inspect.
You may need a small length of wire to solder the broken ends, then use shrink tubing to seal them up. You can use butt-connectors as well. There are some butt connectors that have solder in there that you heat up and get a secure repair.
For the lights, you'll have to remove the electrical tape and some of the plastic wire harness conduit to find the other end of the wires. You may find some other wires damaged in there. You won't know until you inspect.
You may need a small length of wire to solder the broken ends, then use shrink tubing to seal them up. You can use butt-connectors as well. There are some butt connectors that have solder in there that you heat up and get a secure repair.
Thread Starter
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Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 12
I don't know if the solenoid is related. If the solenoid wire goes through the area that was wrecked, then it is possible that wire was damaged.
For the lights, you'll have to remove the electrical tape and some of the plastic wire harness conduit to find the other end of the wires. You may find some other wires damaged in there. You won't know until you inspect.
You may need a small length of wire to solder the broken ends, then use shrink tubing to seal them up. You can use butt-connectors as well. There are some butt connectors that have solder in there that you heat up and get a secure repair.
For the lights, you'll have to remove the electrical tape and some of the plastic wire harness conduit to find the other end of the wires. You may find some other wires damaged in there. You won't know until you inspect.
You may need a small length of wire to solder the broken ends, then use shrink tubing to seal them up. You can use butt-connectors as well. There are some butt connectors that have solder in there that you heat up and get a secure repair.
For the lights, the cut wires need to reconnect via butt-connectors to where it was severed from right? Red back to red and black back to black. Any idea where the harness leads to help find the severed part.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,329
From: Houston, TX
I suspect the other ends are very close to the cut wires you show in the picture. I can't imagine the wires being cut in two different places. You shouldn't have to peel much of the plastic conduit of the wire harness to find them.