Hey guys,
I have a 2010 Accord 2.4 automatic for about a year. I was having intermittent starter issues since I got the car but just got around to doing the job a couple weeks ago. Before I started the work, I disconnected negative battery cable. I removed the
throttle body and intake, replaced the starter, and used new gaskets on the intake and TB. The job turned out well, and there are no starter issues to date. However, now I've noticed longer cranking times only when the engine is warmed up (4-5 seconds), I run into a store, and come back within 10-15 min. Cold starts still seem to be the usual 1-2 seconds. Idle and rpms are normal. Should I have done an idle relearn after the work I did? I have been working on vehicles for over 20 years, and I know what I'm doing, but this has me stumped. Could there be coincidentally another issue (fuel pressure, CAS, MAF), or is it connected to the work I did? Any thoughts about this would be appreciated since I'm a newbie to Hondas.
Thanks in advance,
Mark

 

Did you install a Denso starter? If not, that could be the issue. You may also want to check the battery. But since you say on cold starts it's good it may not be the battery.

 

Thanks for your input. I put in a TYC, which I have used for many jobs. The one I took out was a Mitsuba (I guess it was OE). I've heard the argument that aftermarket starters aren't as strong as the OE ones. I also read that the batteries used in our cars are low in CCAs. Yet in both cases, wouldn't that show up in the cold start as well? That's why this is strange.

 

OE starter for an automatic is Mitsuba.

Many years ago I had intermittent warm start issue, after I replaced the ignition switch (electrical portion) - Honda Part No.:35130-TA0-901, the issue went away.

In your case, it may be something else though. The ignition switch is relatively inexpensive and a quick and easy replacement though.

My initial thoughts would be either ignition switch or MAF sensor. However, as with some issues, there can be many other causes.

 

Thanks for the info. I actually have an ignition switch sitting on the shelf, and I forgot about that. Thanks for reminding me. I might try that. I was thinking it's something that's getting out of spec when warm, but it's not bad enough to send a CEL code. Maybe that switch is breaking down causing the hard starting but not bad enough to cause a no start,

 

The ignition switch is actually very simple. I took the old one apart to examine if I could see anything wrong. I could not see anything out of the ordinary with the metal contacts; but, it did cure my warm start issue.

 

I know what you're saying. I just looked at the new one I have. Well, there is quite a bit of amps running through that, so I imagine over the years the components break
down and don't perform as well as they did when new. Now that I think about it, this may solve my issue. I going to try it tomorrow. Do I just have to remove the lower steering wheel cover to get at it? I imagine you should also disconnect the battery.

 

Yes, you should disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait a few minutes before you start due to the air bag.

 

Hey thanks so much for the additional info. I think this will turn out just fine.

 

You are correct with that. Denso just runs through the brain when I think Honda and Mitsuba is what I have been using.

I haven't heard of the switch being the cause of long starts. I know when mine went, I got a buzzing sound coming from the replay. Let us know how it goes.