2010 EX-L V6 EGR Valve
#1
2010 EX-L V6 EGR Valve
Hello,
I am new here and desperately looking for some help. I have a 2010 Accord Ex-L V6. Recently I got a service engine light and all the signs of a misfire. I also started losing gas mileage. I took the car to Auto Zone to get the codes ran and got a cylinder 2 and 3 misfire, as well as a general misfire. I then took the car to the dealership to get it inspected and was told that it is what seems to be a bad EGR valve. The estimated cost of repairs, parts and tax was right at the $500 range. After doing some research I found that the valve doesn't seem to difficult to get to, and extremely simple to replace (I do have a fairly high mechanical background, just never really worked on my Honda).
Does anybody have any experience changing this valve? Is it fairly difficult to get to? Does anybody have a illustrated parts breakdown of exactly where the valve is located?
Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
I am new here and desperately looking for some help. I have a 2010 Accord Ex-L V6. Recently I got a service engine light and all the signs of a misfire. I also started losing gas mileage. I took the car to Auto Zone to get the codes ran and got a cylinder 2 and 3 misfire, as well as a general misfire. I then took the car to the dealership to get it inspected and was told that it is what seems to be a bad EGR valve. The estimated cost of repairs, parts and tax was right at the $500 range. After doing some research I found that the valve doesn't seem to difficult to get to, and extremely simple to replace (I do have a fairly high mechanical background, just never really worked on my Honda).
Does anybody have any experience changing this valve? Is it fairly difficult to get to? Does anybody have a illustrated parts breakdown of exactly where the valve is located?
Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
#3
I recently removed EGR valve on 03 Acura MDX V6 (very similar engine) and found that a 6" wobble extension was needed to access the retaining nuts (valve body interference). It may be possible to use an open/closed end wrench to remove the nuts, but I did not try this.
good luck
good luck
#5
Still No Luck
Alright guys, back again. I changed the EGR valve, which was in fact plugged up and couldn't open and close. I continued to have the same issues (lack of power, hesitates during exceleration, sluggishness while accelerating). Next I got the service engine light checked and was showing the cylinder 5-6 misfire. I made the jump and installed all new plugs, AND plug coils, and you guessed it...........all the sams issues.
Does anybody have any ideas as to where I should move to next, or should I just take it to the shop?
Does anybody have any ideas as to where I should move to next, or should I just take it to the shop?
#6
It being a 2010 I would not think it was an EGR issue. I would check to see if there is a vacuum leak first then through some redline SL1 fuel cleaner in my tank. Being that the misfire moved from its original spot. The only thing I would have changed was the plugs and made sure they were the NGK iridium which are OEM.
Coils would not go bad so quick. If you did not buy the original Honda coils switch them back as this could cause other issues not originally set. Your misfires are moving so check vac first and clean the system.
What are the codes being pulled? How many miles does it have
Coils would not go bad so quick. If you did not buy the original Honda coils switch them back as this could cause other issues not originally set. Your misfires are moving so check vac first and clean the system.
What are the codes being pulled? How many miles does it have
Last edited by Seanjordan20; 07-16-2018 at 04:44 PM.
#7
Random misfire:
Vacuum leak (hoses and intake manifold- carburetor cleaner is how you test or by smoke if you have a smoke tester)
MAF
Spark plugs
Coils (not old enough unless you have 200k)
Injectors (the reason for the SL1 cleaner)
Fuel filter (you can check fuel pressure)
Bad battery
Vacuum leak (hoses and intake manifold- carburetor cleaner is how you test or by smoke if you have a smoke tester)
MAF
Spark plugs
Coils (not old enough unless you have 200k)
Injectors (the reason for the SL1 cleaner)
Fuel filter (you can check fuel pressure)
Bad battery
#9
Alright guys, back again. I changed the EGR valve, which was in fact plugged up and couldn't open and close. I continued to have the same issues (lack of power, hesitates during exceleration, sluggishness while accelerating). Next I got the service engine light checked and was showing the cylinder 5-6 misfire. I made the jump and installed all new plugs, AND plug coils, and you guessed it...........all the sams issues.
Does anybody have any ideas as to where I should move to next, or should I just take it to the shop?
Does anybody have any ideas as to where I should move to next, or should I just take it to the shop?
Did you clean the EGR port? If not, I'd do that.
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