Hey all

Hopefully someone can help me. My 2013 accord starting idling rough in drive. Just getting worse and worse. So i cleaned the throttle body and took the negative battery terminal off. Put it all back together and now it will not start at all. It had a crankshaft error code so I replaced that but did not fix it. I checked spark and all coils and plugs are sparking. I also tried unhooking the maf sensor and that did not help. Before it cut off the car was rattling. Not sure if something was going bad or it was idling that bad. Not sure what else to try.

 

What was the actual code you read off the PCM?

 

it was a P0339.

 

Is the P0339 returning after replacing the sensor?

 

yes It still shows up. Should I ohm test factory one? I bought a duralast brand from autozone to replace it

 

A P0339 code can be set by a bad sensor, wiring/connector issues, or PCM.

An ohm test is a quick first test, but it is not definitive. Ohm tests are only valid if the resistance is outside of the specifications. A reading in range does not mean the sensor wiring is working properly under electrical load.

Testing in the shop manual has a bunch of tests on the Honda scanner that most DIYers do not have. The sensor has 3 wires. Unplug the connector and inspect the connector for corrosion/loose connections. With your volt meter and the key in the II position with the engine not running, one wire should have 12V, one will be the signal wire, and the 3rd wire will be ground (probably black wire). See if you have 12V on one of the wires to a good ground (touch the black meter lead to the - battery terminal). The black wire should have almost zero resistance to ground. The third wire is the signal wire to the PCM.

The other item in the manual that can cause a strange signal is the ckp pulse plate behind the timing chain cover. It is possible this is damaged and generating a poor signal on a good sensor.

I don't trust aftermarket sensors as they can be bad out of the box. I use new OEM parts if they aren't prohibitively expensive. I'll get used OEM sensors at a u-pull-it yard or on ebay vs new aftermarket.

 

Thank you for all the help so far. So i got it to crank finally. I cleaned the MAF and MAP sensor. Map sensor had good bit of black soot in it and i put new plugs in it. But now its in limp mode and wont rev above 3k rpm. Strangest thing though is that every sensor i have unplugged and plugged back in is now throwing a code. So the MAP, MAF, tps, crank. I tried clearing the codes but they come right back. Should i put my old crank sensor back in?

 

Try the old crank sensor to see if it helps.

 

Tried the old sensor and it still gives the same codes, for MAP, MAF, Crank and TPS , still in limp mode not revving above 3k. All the ones i unplugged. I just don't understand it lol

 

Those sensors aren't on the same circuits, so I can't think of a common cause.

Maybe run through the fuses with a test light to see if you blew a PCM fuse?