My accord has all of a sudden stalled at a red light a few mornings ago my mother in law daily drives it, 150,000 miles. It has codes P0300, p0301, p0302, p0304. It start up and ran fine and as she came too her first red light it just started bogging down all of a sudden and misfiring like crazy. I was lucky to get it home was only 2 blocks away. (We pretty much daily drive this car for 4-5 years it was always our reliable car)



I have to give it gas a bit to get it to run at first, but once running it will run with hard felt misfires poping, then 1-2 minutes later the check engine light will start flashing with the codes. Once I start letting off some gas the engine will stall about 30 seconds later.



-I changed the spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, (distributer 2-3 years old) the injectors, map/maf sensors, o2 sensor, tps sensor, iac valve.



-Timing chain has been done 2-3 years ago



-It does seem to have spark on all 4 plugs after testing for spark.



-I cleaned out the egr port, no blockage, under the EGR, and the one in the intake manifold.



-I did a compression test today and all 4 cylinders read 155,160,160,160



-As far as vacuum leaks the most obvious areas are fine, gonna test the lower intake manifold later with some carb cleaner or whatever it was, over the years it did have the notorious Honda up down rev from 1k-2k which another obvious sign of a air leak I never could find but it always ran okay with it coming and going, never got too a point where it completely killed it too a misfire.



-I bought a fuel pressure tester, but seemingly this accord needs special fittings to get it on there -.-, but I do hear hear the fuel pump prime. The car will also run as mentioned not that it will not start at all.



-tested for a clogged cat as well, most of the exhaust is new for inspection.





Any advice on where to start next would be so helpful thanks!

 

I tried getting help everywhere for this car, so don’t let my post die! (;

 

I tried too spray some starting fluid into the intake while it was running a little bit ago, too see if fuel would help its problem. BUT it seemed like it wanted too stall after a shot of that. So possibly not fuel problem? I’m thinking of checking the new injectors electrical 12v after work tonight.

 

You put a lot of parts into your car and still have the same results. Make sure you keep the old parts, because a new aftermarket part can still be bad.

If you have a spark tester where you can set the spark gap with a threaded piece, set the gap larger, so you can estimate the voltage that can jump the gap. A spark has an easier time jumping a gap when it is not under engine compression.

I'd look at the distributor cap and rotor for any signs of arching/carbon tracking inside the cap or on the rotor.

Can you verify that your timing belt is still in time? It is possible the timing belt jumped time.

 

I have a new spark tester arriving in the morning, though I do get spark when spark plug is grounded to metal.

the distributor is clean on its internal no carbon buildup, no oil. everything still looks fresh inside when I replaced the ignition coil. What are the chances of the ignition module? Might get a multimeter on it and check it, along with my injectors. Make sure everything wiring is good.

(I replaced a lot of parts yes, but that car probably definitely needed the extra tune up for 20+ years old)

I had a thought today MAYBE the timing chain jumped somehow, so I’m going to go do my research and check the timing probably in the morning as well.

 

Verifying the timing isn't a bad idea, but if that happened I don't think the compression would be as good as you measured.