90 accord wont start
stethoscope or one of these bad boys works well
Kinda tough to "take one out". They are held in place by the fuel rail, and unbolting the rail allows the fuel pressure to push the injector right out of the rail.
You'll want to make some kind of bracket to hold the 4 injectors solidly into the fuel rail, otherwise don't pressurize the rail. Also, disturbing the seals on the injectors means they probably will leak when you put it all back together. Plan on getting all new O-rings.
You'll want to make some kind of bracket to hold the 4 injectors solidly into the fuel rail, otherwise don't pressurize the rail. Also, disturbing the seals on the injectors means they probably will leak when you put it all back together. Plan on getting all new O-rings.
A crude fuel pressure check is to crack the banjo bolt on the fuel rail after turning keyswitch to On fo 5 secs and then OFF. Your 90 Accord may also have a bleeder bolt on the fuel rail. If you get a good spray of fuel, the fuel pressure is likely OK. If nothing, something in the fuel delivery system is faulty; main fuel relay, wiring, fuel pump.
Fuel, spark, compression, and timing are necessary. You are saying you have all of these and no-start. You've overlooked something, likely in fuel delivery.
You should also check that spark timing is OK by pointing timing light at the timing marks (on flywheel I think in the 90 Accord) to see if #1 wire spark is occuring about 15 BTDC.
Spark plug wires installed incorrectly can cause no-start.
good luck
Fuel, spark, compression, and timing are necessary. You are saying you have all of these and no-start. You've overlooked something, likely in fuel delivery.
You should also check that spark timing is OK by pointing timing light at the timing marks (on flywheel I think in the 90 Accord) to see if #1 wire spark is occuring about 15 BTDC.
Spark plug wires installed incorrectly can cause no-start.
good luck
Suggest trying to start w/ starter fluid (5-10 sec shot) sprayed into the intake.
If it doesn't start this way, then ignition is too weak to ignite starter fluid and spark is likely missing most of the time.
If it starts, then somehow fuel delivery is not happening, suggesting a sensor (TDC/Crank/CyL) fault or perhaps and an ECU issue.
good luck
If it doesn't start this way, then ignition is too weak to ignite starter fluid and spark is likely missing most of the time.
If it starts, then somehow fuel delivery is not happening, suggesting a sensor (TDC/Crank/CyL) fault or perhaps and an ECU issue.
good luck
Suggest trying to start w/ starter fluid (5-10 sec shot) sprayed into the intake.
If it doesn't start this way, then ignition is too weak to ignite starter fluid and spark is likely missing most of the time.
If it starts, then somehow fuel delivery is not happening, suggesting a sensor (TDC/Crank/CyL) fault or perhaps and an ECU issue.
good luck
If it doesn't start this way, then ignition is too weak to ignite starter fluid and spark is likely missing most of the time.
If it starts, then somehow fuel delivery is not happening, suggesting a sensor (TDC/Crank/CyL) fault or perhaps and an ECU issue.
good luck
I was thinking about doing that just haven't got around to it. I have changed the distributor and ecu. Could have bad parts. thanks
worked on honda today. tried spraying starting fluid in intake. Did not fire. Noticed something today. turned switch on, check engine light came on, clicked, went out and than came back on.
the check engine light also blinks while cranking. Never noticed that before. always came on and than went out. Never blinked while cranking in pass. Going to try another relay.
the check engine light also blinks while cranking. Never noticed that before. always came on and than went out. Never blinked while cranking in pass. Going to try another relay.
YEh good info members!
I also believe something was over looked or missed?
check everything!then check it a second time!and ckeck it 1 more time!
Its very likely what Tex said about the spark plug wires?remember they firing order on the distributor is counterclockwise 1-3-4-2
I also believe something was over looked or missed?
check everything!then check it a second time!and ckeck it 1 more time!
Its very likely what Tex said about the spark plug wires?remember they firing order on the distributor is counterclockwise 1-3-4-2
got to work on honda tonight. changed distributor and relay from my other accord, that I know are good)and after cranking for a while it started. But if i try to accelerate slowly the car dies and i have to crank for awhile to get it started. Also if i push the pedal quickly to the floor the engine revs up with no stalling. At idle runs fine and over 2000 rpm to limit runs fine. problem is from idle to 2000 rpm engine dies. any help out there? thanks I have already changed the throttle body with the tps switch. Still have same problem
Last edited by dwagoner; Aug 20, 2012 at 07:40 PM.
Bump....
Any new news @dwagoner???
How is the idle is it erratic?
Check the spark plugs, see if worn and check the gap! Gap being off is unlikely but is possible.
Also check for a vacuum leak. Not only in the lines but also check the intake manifold, air control valve and the fuel injection system!
I would also check the compression! Somewhere I do believe 170psi range, I think 130psi is the low point.
Hope these ideas are of help. Im still going nuts with mine, hopefully I will figure it out soon, hope you figure out yours as well.
Any new news @dwagoner???
How is the idle is it erratic?
Check the spark plugs, see if worn and check the gap! Gap being off is unlikely but is possible.
Also check for a vacuum leak. Not only in the lines but also check the intake manifold, air control valve and the fuel injection system!
I would also check the compression! Somewhere I do believe 170psi range, I think 130psi is the low point.
Hope these ideas are of help. Im still going nuts with mine, hopefully I will figure it out soon, hope you figure out yours as well.


