New to the forum and must say I have learned a lot already reading through the many post. I would like to share this issue I have and see what anyone thinks. Thank you for your time and any help. I hope I tagged this post correctly in accordance with forum rules as to get feeback.

My car runs great for such an old car 90% of the time. However there are times it just won’t start. I have noticed this to happen on hot days and or rainy days. The irony is this is the only time my car will not start. In the winter (live in northeast Ohio) is doesn’t do this at all! It has gas, spark, and power as I mentioned for the most part it runs fine.

I think the problem lays within the transmission. The car will keeping turning but won’t start like its in gear and you would try to start it. Also there is a green “S” indicator light in the dash for the sports transmission feature (button located on side of shifter handle.) When the car isn’t starting this light flashes.

If you play around for a while and sometimes wait a while, the car will turn over just fine like nothing happened and run like no tomorrow. When it runs though after a few miles the green “S” indicator light starts flashing and I usually loose my speedometer also. However the car runs and shifts fine otherwise. Even if the car starts at the first turn of the key this happens after a couple miles (loose speedometer and green indicator light flashes.)

While also trying to get it to start, there are times it will start with the green “S” indicator light flashing right away. When this happens you can put the car in drive and put the pedal to the floor and you will only go around 5 mph. I then shut the car off, wait, restart it and it runs fine.

Aside from this, and not sure if this is related, is when the car is in park it spits and sputters some. Then it will idol real quietly. However jump in, through it in drive, and it will go.

I have been told its many things. The car doesn’t log any codes (as its older and really doesn’t,) it could be a contact wire somewhere that when exposed to heat or moisture looses its conductivity, cap and rotor (however like new replaced about a year ago,) and or as mentioned the sports transmission feature messing up. From my personal research I have seen things similar to this and answers that state Honda’s have special transmission fluid or it’s what I think is called a transmission control unit?

I enjoy my for the most part my loyal Honda, however if this problem keeps going I will be forced to upgrade. I enjoy not worrying about payments or scratches and would like to keep this one on the road. It only has around 180,000 miles and I feel I can get more out of her.

Any ideas, comments, or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time reading this.

 

The S light flashing means the transmission computer detected a code. Find that code. Read how to get CEL codes in the DIY section. Count the check engine light flashes and the S light flashes. Post the codes on here and tell us which light flashed which code(s).

Get in the habit of turning the key to the II position, and do not start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for about two seconds while the check engine light does its bulb check. The sound is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc and listen carefully. If that sound is missing when the car will not start, then I would replace/repair the main fuel relay.

 

Thanks you for the info. I will check that section out and get with my mechanic. Come to think of it, when trying to start it I have noticed the green "S" light flash fast around 5 times (my guess on the amount of flashes.)



I think the fuel relay and pump is ok. I can hear it when I turn the key.

Should I get something from the codes, I will repost what I have uncovered to complete my thread. Thanks again.

 

You may hear the fuel relay and pump now, but when no-start occurs they may be absent. That's why PA recommended to do every time you start. When no-start occurs and no fuel pump sound, the main fuel relay is very likely.

good luck

 

Thanks! It hasn't done this issue for a couple of weeks (fingers crossed) however its only a matter of time. I will listen then when it does this for the fuel pump.

 

This counting codes I would have to do when my car demonstrates this issue? So be ready to count when this occurs?

If so is there another test I can have done before having to wait for this occur?

I was chatting with someone who said the transmission could have went into a " Fail Safe Mode?" Any thoughts on this???

THANKS!!!!!!

(COPIED & PASTED INFO)

The S light or shift status light is flashing because the transmission controller has detected a problem. Yes even the older computer controlled cars would store trouble codes. It's possible that when the S light is flashing, the transmission goes into fail safe mode.

You might want to see what the transmission controller is detecting. This might aim you to an area to begin diagnosis.

The S light or shift status light is flashing because the transmission controller has detected a problem. Yes even the older computer controlled cars would store trouble codes. It's possible that when the S light is flashing, the transmission goes into fail safe mode.

You might want to see what the transmission controller is detecting. This might aim you to an area to begin diagnosis.




There is a check connector on the passenger side usually below the glove box area. Use a paper clip and jump the two terminals together in the connector. Then turn the ignition on and count the flashes of the S light. The light flashes in one or two digit format.
On single digit codes the light will flash fast then there will be a long pause and the start of the next code. If it is a two digit code, the light will flash the first digit fast, separated by a short pause, and then flash the second digit slow.


Here is the code list:


1. Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2. Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3. Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5. Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6. Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7. Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8. Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9. Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10. Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11. Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
13. Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14. Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15. Kickdown switch circuit shorted.

(END OF COPIED & PASTED TEXT)

 

When you jump the connector, key on. If there are any stored codes they will "flash". So no, you do not have to wait again, they are stored in the ECU and or TCU. I say ECU, if there is anything with the engine the CEL will flash codes as well as the D4. They are different so if both start to flash, get both.

 

I must have spoke to soon about my car not having done this issue in a couple of weeks as it did last night. Normally it doesn't do it at night, but it was really foggy out, so high moisture.

I did try to make some observations as suggested per my understanding of the mentioned suggestions. I did hear the fuel pump. Also when it did this the "S" green light just flashed rapdily. The check engine light came on for about 10 secs, then shut off as the green S light continued to rapidly flash.

I plan to print this forum and take it to my mechanic.

Also I would like to add an additional item that is happening that I don't beleive I mentioned in my orginal post. When I turn my car off, the radiator fan continues to run sometimes for a few minutes. The tempeture is fine I have started the car again to check.

However when my car is demonstrating this starting issue after I have driven somewhere, like the store or something, and I come back out to start it, the fan will start running after I tried to start the car. It will shut back off after about a minute. I can try to start it again but nothing and the fan will come back on. I turn the key off and the fan runs again for about a minute or so, then shuts off.

I don't know if this is relevant but thought I would note it just in case.

 

You should jump that connector and count the codes. It is really simple to do and may save you a trip to the mechanic.

 

I appreciate your vote of confidence but I don't trust myself enough to change the oil! LOL