I just wanted to thank Tony and the others who have contributed to this thread. Today's the day for my 92 wagon....

 

Hey, new to the site and have a couple of questions about this job. In setting the tension it says to rotate the crank counterclockwise....Does this mean counterclockwise as you are looking at the crank (in other words the same direction as loosening the crank bolt)?

I recently had the timing belt replaced by a shop (thought about doing it myself but short on time and chickened out) and I now have a slight whirring sound that was not there before, I read on the site that this could be from an overtensioned timing belt. To do the adjustment now that everything is assembled I assume all I need to do is remove the valve cover (to expose the cam Sprocket), loosen the tensioner adjusting nut, rotate the crank so the cam sprocket moves three teeth and then retighten the tensioner adjusting nut - is that the correct procedure?

Also, my 92 accord vibrates quite a bit at idle.....I had assumed this was because the valved motor mount was bad, could it be from an improperly timed balance shaft? Is vibration the only symptom of an out of time balance shaft?

Nice write up, probably would have tackled the project if I had found this first. Sorry if answers to questions are already in the forum somewhere.

 

Dixiechamp, what engine?
Accord 4-cyl up to 1998 spin one way, V-6 spin the other way.

Looking at the crankshaft pulley, the engine always spins the same direction that the road-wheel turns when the car is moving forwards. So it's like this...

V-6 crank pulley is on the right side of the car. Standing by the right-front tire & looking at the pulley, the engine spins clockwise just like the tire.

4-cyl crank pulley is on the left side of the car. Standing by the left-front tire & looking at the pulley, the engine spins counter-clockwise just like the tire.

When you turn the engine by hand, always turn it in the direction it runs.

 

I have the 4 cylinder. Thanks for the tip, since I will be adjusting the tension with the covers on and therefore couldn't see what was going on I wanted to be sure I was turning in the right direction.

 

Based on stories about the tensioner spring being weak, I'd take off the upper cover to watch.

A hint...
Turn the crank to apply tension across the long front span of the belt, crank to cam. That moves the slack over to the back-side of the belt, around the waterpump & tensioner. So far so good.
What's not in the procedure is to hold a little tension on that wrench, as you tighten the tensioner nut. You don't want to allow anything to spring back a bit, allowing slack to move over to the front span of the belt.

You can also watch as you tighten the tensioner nut, watch to see if it slackens.

The timing belt isn't supposed to be TIGHT like the alternator belt. In that long span, you should just be able to twist is 90-degrees or so.

 

Got it.....now I understand the "why" behind the procedure and that gives me a lot more confidence going into the job. Gonna tackle it this weekend, we'll see if I can improve on the shop's work, with this information I'm betting I can. Thanks.

 

Got that belt adjusted, whirring noise is gone, thanks for the help. I did take the upper cover off, all in all the adjustment procedure is not too difficult. The shop had the belt not super tight but quite noticably tighter than it was after I followed the procedure. They also seemed to have the slack on the long side of the belt (from crank up to camshaft) whereas after following the procedure I had the slack on the back side. Thanks again for the tip.

 

First of a big big thank you for Tony great job man!

If its all possible can someone please post a complete parts list and where they got it from?

Also what tools would i need.

Thank you in advance and really i appreciate all what you do , keep it up!

 

Majestic Honda has real Honda parts at great prices. People often change the water pump 'while they're at it,' although this is hardly required.
Get the belts (cam and balance shaft), flywheel bolt, and maybe the pump. You may want a new valve cover gasket, although you can re-use the old one if it isn't too old.

Tools:
Standard metric socket set, with a few extensions. The frame bolts are large and may be extra tight since they are exposed to road salt, etc - a modest breaker bar helps.
You'll need a jack to lower the engine a few inches. Should be one in the trunk!
Screwdrivers, misc hand tools.
While you're in there, you may as well check the valves - got feeler gauges?

The biggest PITA is removing the flywheel bolt. It's either a 32 or 36mm socket - I forget. A decent air wrench is the 5 second solution. A $20 'Crank PulleyTool' will also work, as seen at: Auto Repair - Honda Crank Pulley Tool Use - YouTube (Turn your speakers down to avoid ear damage from loud crappy music!)

There's an annoying L shaped brace at the top, rear corner of the block that must be removed. Fighting the belt cover is also a pain - the upper and lower link together a little too well.

Suggest you mark the pulleys and corresponding location on the belt before removing the belt. If something shifts, you can mark the new belt at the same places and be sure that everything is re-aligned.

Set aside a full day for your first attempt. (3 hours sounds about right if you've done it once before.)

Have fun!

 

I strongly suggest you RENT an electric impact gun similar to the following Makita:
Makita TW1000 1" Square Drive Impact Wrench with Side Handle | ToolBarn.com

This is definitely one job where the more powerful the tool, the better.