Hello, new guy to the forums here, but not new to cars at all. Recently picked up a 1992 Accord, LX, AT.

Unfortunately, shortly after getting it, it started to refuse to start on occasion and D4 would flash. To get it going again, I would simply have to switch gears a few times, and wait a minute or two. Within the 3 weeks I have had the car, it did this approximately 4 times.

Anyhow, yesterday, I decided to change out the plugs, wires, and cap with new replacements, along with a CAI from a scrapped Accord we had in our shop. Simply enough, I did so, making sure all the plug wires were in the correct order, and that all vacuum lines were connected.

Unfortunately, since, the car has refused to start. I have Ohm'd each wire, and spark plug, and they are all withing tolerance. I have also checked each wire, with plug, for spark by cranking the engine while having the plug end held against ground. They all spark a nice white. Also, I can smell gas from the exhaust, and they plugs have gas on them each time they've been removed.

So, I have spark, fuel, and reasonably, I must be getting air. Why won't this thing start again?? Something interesting I HAVE noticed is that if I intentionally set the firing order 90* out on the cap, you can hear the engine firing incorrectly, either fighting the starter, or backfiring through the exhaust. With the timing correct, however, it does nothing...

 

The D4 light means the transmission computer detected a problem. See the DIY section on how to get CEL codes.

Did you remove the distributor when you changed the cap and plug wires?

 

Ya, I did some reading regarding the D4 light issue. It's not flashing this time around, but it does stay on with the key in the ON position, and while cranking. Shorting the test lead to reveal and codes simply turns the D4 light off.

No, the distributor was not removed, nor was it loosened. The timing is the same as it was prior.

 

I would make sure that your spark plug wires are installed in the correct order. The firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 going clockwise around the distributor when looking at the distributor from the passenger side of the car.

#1 should be at the ~5 o'clock position.

 

Double checked the wires, they're in the right order. The way my cap is positioned, however, the plug positions are exactly 6, 3, 12, and 9 o'clock. Placing number 1 plug wire at 3 o'clock gives me nothing, it sounds like it's not even firing. Placing number 1 at 6 o'clock makes is backfire and putt through the exhaust, indicating fire, just out of time...

 

Look at the distributor cap. If it's a Honda OEM cap, there's usually a letter or number embossed alongside the #1 post.

If not, then you can find #1 based on the camshaft position but for this you'll have to remove the valve cover.

 

On the 92 accord there is rubber plug for you to look at the gears on the drive plate and a pointer.

Turn the engine by hand using a 19mm socket on the crank pulley until the mark on the drive plate lines up with the pointer. See pic.

Remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to #1.

 

Thanks, still no dice though. Set it to tdc, dizzy was spot on. Checked my compression and it's between 130 and 150 all across. So now I have confirmed compression, fuel sprays from the banjo, and the plugs spark...

Any more ideas? I also got a new ICM, but it didn't help.

 

I have seen one other case where plugs would fire in air, but not start the engine. I turned out to be a bad coil.

If you have a timing light try checking for spark by attaching pickup to spark plug leads and turning engine over. No flash means no spark.

The engine compressions are on low side. Spec is 180 nominal, 135 minimum w/ 28 psi maximum variation between any cylinder.

good luck

 

BINGO! You posted that just before I got on here to tell everyone I figured it out. Basically, they coil was still good enough to fire the plugs in open air, but not under compression.

I discovered this by installing my brother's MSD cap, which is clear. When attempting to start it, I could see through the cap that only two spots on the cap were firing, and it was a very weak spark.

Unfortunately, the local parts store couldn't get the coil I needed for two days. Luckily, I discovered that a D16 distributor we had previously modded for an MSD coil would fit perfectly, and along with a new Blaster 2 coil, it solved my problem!

Thanks everyone for your help!