Go easy on me.
Never really did anything other then oil changes before, but no choice now due to finances. Hopefully this won't be too bad.
Been dealing with my 92 Accord leaking a little oil but it's no longer a little bit.
I know one place it's leaking from is the Oil cooler o-ring. Picked up the o-ring yesterday at a local dealership, but I have a few questions before I start.

92 Accord Ex 2 door
2.2L Automatic

Pretty sure I need a 30mm socket for the nut securing the oil cooler, (If that's wrong, let me know).

Basically I'm looking for the torque spec when bolting it back on.
I actually went to the library to check manuals when I couldn't find it online. But couldn't find it there either. Found torque specs for every other thing on the engine you could think of...

Also, should the oil cooler itself come off pretty easily after I take off the bolt securing it? I know the cooling lines will still be attached. Really hope I don't have to remove those.
Any other advice on removing the oil cooler or reinstalling the new o-ring is appreciated.



Next leak is the valve cover. Dealer wants $45 for the complete gasket set but local auto parts store is $27. On a shoestring budget here, so will the cheap one work just as well?
Should I remove the plugs or just the wires? Because the old tube seals are shot and there's oil in the VC holes (where the spark plugs are).
Once the cover is off, will it be obvious how the tube seals fit in place?
Also, do I need any type of Silicone gasket sealant?
Finally, what can I use to clean oil off the rubber spark plug wires? Also to clean the area around the plugs where the oil pooled? (So nothing bad gets in the cylinder if the plugs are off)

Again, any tricks or advice are greatly appreciated.

 

About the valve cover gasket, you can use a replacement autozone or equivalent.

 

I never did the o-ring on the oil cooler, so I don't have any good advice.

For the valve cover gasket, felpro makes good gaskets.

There are two sets of seals on your engine. There are four on top of the valve cover and four o-rings under the rocker assembly.

The lower seals are more work. Search v=wYU8qtPzQOY on YouTube for the lower seals and the valve cover gasket. For the upper seals, just pay attention to which face of the seal goes towards the valve cover.

 

Went to Auto Zone and got the Felpro gasket set.
Will probably do it Wed or Thurs. Waiting to hopefully get some info about the torque specs for the oil cooler bolt.
Found the spec for the valve cover nuts, they're 88-90 inch/LBs (not Ft/LBs). Hope that's right.

As for the lower o-rings under the rocker assembly, I have no plans to do those now. A little more involved then what I'm ready for, although I did watch the video from Ericthecarguy. Excellent video by the way, and I did pick up a few things that will help with installing the gasket.
Thanks.

 

Bump
Anyone know the torque for the nut that holds the oil cooler in place?
That's the one thing I'm kind of worried about.

 

I saw this torque in an integra shop manual and it says 54 ft-lb. Did a google search and 54 ft-lb was for the 92 accord engine too. It was a wiki answers site.

 

Wow that was quick, thanks. Tomorrow I can get it done.

 

Hmm, seems wiki answers blew this this one. Although it was a great idea to look there. I spent a few hours looking online and couldn't find it. Never thought to check there.


Anyway, I totally forgot I spoke to guy in the local dealership service dept this morning. Told me he'd call back with the info and he actually did a little while ago.
He said, it's 27 ft lbs and to use locktite.

I may have just dodged a bullet there...

 

Removing the oil cooler is going to take some PB blaster and a impact socket. I don't remember what size. Iv always just tighten them down with a socket wrench pretty good on all my oil coolers. BE VERY CAREFULL as its supper easy to cross threads the oil coolers bolt. Then you are kinda f-ed in the A because you will always leak if you cross thread and there is no room for error as the metal is very thin around thos threads so taping a new threads might be a task.

edit- Also if you do have to use PB blaster or anything help break it lose. MAKE SURE to run clean coolant in and out of the cooler. You don;t want to install the cool back on the engine with PB blaster or what not in the cooler. The PB blaster will eat up your water pump and seals.

 

Got a loaner Torque wrench and 30mm socket from local parts store.
The oil cooler actually wasn't too hard to get off. Couple good pulls on the socket wrench and it was loose. Took off the oil cooler. Spent a minute or two looking at it with a flashlight trying to see the old o-ring so I could pull it out. Was hard to get a good angle with the cooling lines still attached. I just couldn't see it. Then I turned my head a little bit and there it was, stuck to the block lol. It was perma-squished flat, and peeled right off. Not really brittle but the rubber was hard and broke when I pulled it off.
The new o-ring was being stubborn and kept falling out before I could get the cooler in place, but I managed to get it done after a few tries.
Checked and tightened a few bolts on the oil pan while I was underneath, but couldn't get to all of them. A few were pretty loose though.

The most annoying thing that happened today was one of nuts for the valve cover fell behind the engine and never made it to the ground. Doh!
Gave up after about 20 minutes of looking for it. Neighbor had the right size nut though so no problem.

All in all, it was pretty easy.